Help learing how to use my new flash.

[philwojo]

Ok, so I am still pretty new to all this, but have a good understanding of taking photo's in general.

I received a SB-600 as a gift for xmas, and I really am trying to learn to use it and do well with it.

This past weekend I was doing some dancing with my wife and was taking some photo's as well of other people. Here are 2 examples of shots I took. The 1st one the flash fired, the 2nd one it didn't. The 1st one with the flash looks washed out to me, what can I do to correct this, or is it just how I'm seeing the photo?

I was using my 50mm F/1.8 lens and was setup in "S" mode with a shutter speed of 1/200 to try and freeze the motion of the dancing.

Any help/feedback would be great.

1st Pic:

http://www.philwojo.com/imagegallery/data/media/22/DSC_7005.JPG


2nd Pic:

http://www.philwojo.com/imagegallery/data/media/22/DSC_7006.JPG

Thanks,
Phil

[erichlund]

I won't go into why one flashed and the other did not, except probably that you should know that it takes the flash a bit to recycle between shots.

As for the washed out look, that's the natural effect of the main source of light coming from the same position as the camera. This causes everything to be evenly lit, which means there are no shadows that you would normally see from off angle lighting. After all, other than spelunkers, how many people do you know walk around with a big spotlight on their head. Lamp shade, maybe, but normally we see objects that are lit from directions other than from directly behind us.

So, how to fix it. Well, you notice how the flash has a hinge mechanism at its midpoint. Adjust the flash so it points up about 45 degrees toward the ceiling. This will bounce the light off the ceiling, making the light from the camera look much more natural. It will also take more power from the flash to get the same amount of light on your target, but that just means you either have to be closer, or you get less light from the flash, or your recycle time is longer if you had power to spare.

[philwojo]

Thanks Eric, and yes I know about the recycle, and I should have stated that. I was just pointing out the washed out look from the 2 pics.

I am also aware that the Sb-600 both tilts and rotates. I did play with that, but all the shots where the flash fired seem to have that same washed out look. These 2 shots were from early on and I had the camera tilted on it's side and the flash was just shy of being point straight out. I think it is like 75 degrees or something similar to that as marked on the flash.

This is a decent sized room and from where I was standing it was probably 20 feet to the wall as the flash was pointed. There was also a crowd of people on that wall, about 70 people in all, so I am still trying to figure out why it all looks so washed out.

Like I said I am still learning about everything, but especially the flash and trying to get a better handle on this.

I don't think the picture looks bad, but I know it can look so much better based on what I see others posting on here. I want my stuff to look and get better, so that is why I'm posting.

Phil

[philwojo]

Here are 2 more examples from later in the night, but now I had actually rotated the flash to point and fire backward behind me. This wall was about 5-8ft behind me and then about 20ft to the couple.

1st Pic:

http://www.philwojo.com/imagegallery/data/media/22/DSC_7102.JPG

2nd Pic:

http://www.philwojo.com/imagegallery/data/media/22/DSC_7103.JPG

Phil

[Rooz]

can you pls include the exif data. looks to me like the second lot of shots you posted are overexposed. your flash should be set to TTL BL FP and it should never be pointed directly at the subject if at all possible.

its unusual for flash photos to be washed out, they normally have more contrast than what you would like. on the surface it looks to me like you dont have your WB right, the iso is too low and you're getting the flash to do all the work which is giving it a really strongly lit feel as ooposed to a more balanced light source.

i find in portrait orientation, (especially with a short stubby lens), a lens hood becomes important as there is more chance of stray light entrering the front element which can also affect contrast.

[Cyberwlf]

Yeah it seems to me like your pointing the flash directly at the people, never a smart idea in my experience, always bounce the flash off the ceiling or reflector or something, and if you have a diffuser try make use of it to provide a more natural/not as harsh lighting.

[erichlund]

BTW: in the second set of photos, in the top photo, one of them is off step. ;) I can't hear the music, but if I had to guess, it would not be her.

Also, the lack of any shadow at all tends to confirm what Rooz is saying. On the first set, the flash is pretty close to straight on, as you can see from the significant shadow almost directly behind the guy. The portrait orientation explains the very slight offset. I recommend you use the ceiling when possible, rather than bouncing off a wall. Light from above tends to be our natural expectation. Of course, windows are often a source of lateral light.

[jcon]

Here are 2 more examples from later in the night, but now I had actually rotated the flash to point and fire backward behind me. This wall was about 5-8ft behind me and then about 20ft to the couple.


Phil

EXIF would be helpful as previously mentioned, but since you had flash facing behind you, away from the subject, I dont think its a flash problem, I think its your camera settings, what was your ISO at and your Aperture?

[philwojo]

I forgot, I also have a diffuser on the flash, it is just a cover, milky white, that goes over the front of the flash, that was on the entire time. I rarely, if ever, had the flash pointed directly at anyone, that was maybe for the 1st 10-15 shots I took out of about 250, everything after that was pointed away from the dancers.

I will get the photo's posted a different way so you can see the exif data. I am having issues accessing my web space right now though, so I am not sure when I can get them posted.

As for the settings on the flash, I have to say that I am not sure what they are, I really just put it on the camera, and turned it on and off I went. So I would assume TTL, but after that I'm not sure. I can check when I get home later tonight.

Thanks for the help,
Phil

[Cyberwlf]

Maybe the issue is indeed then in your camera settings as jcon is suggesting. But yeah will have to wait and see the EXIF data first before people can comment.

[alessy]

Ill borow this thread because you are just talking about diffuser.

Can you point the flash directly on subject with diffuser on or it is still not good idea ?
For example where you cannot bounce light from wals etc..

Does anybody know for some good link that shows with examples where and when to use direct flash, when to use diffuser, when to use bouncing ...

thx

[philwojo]

I am able to access the exif data locally, so here is what I have for pic #1 from the 1st set.

[Image]
Make = NIKON CORPORATION
Model = NIKON D50
X Resolution = 300
Y Resolution = 300
Resolution Unit = inch
Software = Ver.1.00
Date Time = 2009-03-07 20:52:15
YCbCr Positioning = co-sited
Exif IFD Pointer = Offset: 336
A401 = 0
A402 = 0
A403 = 0
A404 = 1/1
A405 = 75
A406 = 0
A407 = 0
A408 = 0
A409 = 2
A40A = 0
A40C = 0

[Camera]
Exposure Time = 1/200"
F Number = F1.8
Exposure Program = Shutter priority
Exif Version = Version 2.21
Date Time Original = 2009-03-07 20:52:15
Date Time Digitized = 2009-03-07 20:52:15
Components Configuration = YCbcr
Compressed Bits Per Pixel = 4
Exposure Bias Value = ±0EV
Max Aperture Value = F1.74
Metering Mode = Pattern
Light Source = unknown
Flash = Flash fired, auto mode, return light detected
Focal Length = 50mm
Maker Note = 27534 Byte
User Comment =
Subsec Time = 0.50"
Subsec Time Original = 0.50"
Subsec Time Digitized = 0.50"
Flashpix Version = Version 1.0
Color Space = sRGB
Exif Image Width = 2000
Exif Image Height = 3008
Sensing Method = One-chip color area sensor
File Source = DSC
Scene Type = A directly photographed image
CFA Pattern =

[Thumbnail Info]
Compression = JPEG Compressed (Thumbnail)
X Resolution = 300
Y Resolution = 300
Resolution Unit = inch
JPEG Interchange Format = Offset: 28446
JPEG Interchange Format Length = Length: 8848
YCbCr Positioning = co-sited

[Thumbnail]
Thumbnail = 120 x 160

[MakerNote (Nikon)]
Makernote Version = 0210
ISO Speed Used = 450
Quality = FINE
White Balance = AUTO
Sharpening = AUTO
Focus Mode = AF-A
Flash Setting = NORMAL
Auto Flash Mode = Optional,TTL
White Balance Bias Value = 0
000D = 00, 01, 06, 00
Exposure Diff = E6, 01, 0C, 00
ThumbOffset = 1662
Flash Compensation = 06, 01, 06, 00
ISO Speed Requested = 200
Photo corner coordinates = 0, 0, 3008, 2000
0017 = 00, 01, 06, 00
Flash Bracket Compensation Applied = 00, 01, 06, 00
AE Bracket Compensation Applied = 0EV
001D = D50
Tone Compensation (Contrast) = AUTO
Lens Type = 2
Lens Min/Max Focal Length, Max Aperture = 500/10, 500/10, 18/10, 18/10
Flash Used = 7
Auto Focus Area = 01, 00, 00, 01
Bracketing & Shooting Mode = 33
008A = 0
008B = 58, 01, 0C, 00
Colour Mode = MODE3a
Lighting Type = SPEEDLIGHT
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Hue Adjustmen = 0
Noise Reduction = OFF
0097 = 30, 32, 30, 35, C4, 5F, D3, 34, 9A, ED, 21, 42, 61, 68, 5E, 43, 17, DA, 8E, 0C, BC, 3C, AB, 07, 52, F7, BC, D5, D9, D1, B6, 8B, 4F, 02, A4, 35, B4, 24, 86, D0, 08, 96, 55, E7, 51, 26, 0A, 93, 85, 8D, B8, 5A, A9, 0B, 5A, 9B, C2, 25, E8, AD, C9, 37, 66, 06, BD, 6D, D6, C8, A5, 39, 32, C2, 79, FE, 82, 4D, 00, 4A, FA, 21, B4, 38, A8, 0F, 9E, 5F, 0A, D8, 33, 2E, 18, 6F, 99, 60, 15, E9, 0E, A2, 07, 66, 95, C4, E2, EF, EB, D6, B0, 79, 31, D8, 6E, F3, 67, CA, 1C, 5D, 8D, AC, BA, B7, A3, 7E, 48, 01, A9, 40, C6, 3B, 9F, F2, 34, 65, 85, 94, 92, 80, 5B, D9, E0, 76, 21, 57, 1E, 7C, D7, E5, 4C, 92, 7D, 83, 6A, B8, 13, 31, 78, EE, 99, EF, 76, 34, 0F, BD, 64, 8A, 75, 9B, 42, 0F, CB, 76, 10, 99, 11, 78, CE, 13, 47, 6A, 7C, 7D, 6D, 4C, 1A, D7, 83, 1E, A8, 21, 89, E0, 26, 5B, 7F, 92, 94, 85, 65, 34, F2, 9F, 3B, C6, 40, A9, 01, 48, 7E, A3, B7, BA, AC, 8D, 5D, 1C, CA, 67, F3, 6E, D8, 31, 79, B0, D6, EB, EF, E2, C4, 95, 55, 04, A2, D0, AB, E9, 70, 46, F1, E7, 2E, CC, 27, F5, DC, 62, 4D, 13, 7A, 08, 63, 41, 08, BE, 69, 7F, 86, 84, 5F, CD, F4, 5A, 45, 2B, 52, 6F, 14, 66, A3, CA, E1, E8, DE, C1, CD, 5B, 22, AD, C5, BC, 36, 4B, D3, 28, 0B, 9D
0098 = 30, 32, 30, 31, E0, 47, DB, 3B, CA, 96, 70, 3F, 39, 38, 0E, 57, 03, A0, 98, 3A, FF, 0F, E9, 00, 53, 8E, B8, D1, D9, D2, B3
009A = 78/10, 78/10
00A0 =
00A2 = 2243121
00A3 = 0
Total Number of Shutter Releases for Camera = 6905
00A8 = 30, 31, 30, 30, 01, 36, 02, 05, 07, 01, 00, 32, 00, 00, 00, 00, 00, 00, 00, 00
Image optimisation = CUSTOM
Saturation = ENHANCED
Digital Vari-Program =


I'll start with that and then I can post more.

[Cyberwlf]

Ill borow this thread because you are just talking about diffuser.

Can you point the flash directly on subject with diffuser on or it is still not good idea ?
For example where you cannot bounce light from wals etc..

Does anybody know for some good link that shows with examples where and when to use direct flash, when to use diffuser, when to use bouncing ...

thx

That's what reflectors were invented for ;) When you have no walls/ceilings, you can use them instead!

But i dare say (and im far from an expert on lighting) but in my experience diffuser or not, directly pointing at the subject is never good unless its for intended artistic effect. At the least still angle it up from the subject.

[philwojo]

Ok, here is the exif from the 2nd pic in the 1st set:

[Image]
Make = NIKON CORPORATION
Model = NIKON D50
X Resolution = 300
Y Resolution = 300
Resolution Unit = inch
Software = Ver.1.00
Date Time = 2009-03-07 20:52:16
YCbCr Positioning = co-sited
Exif IFD Pointer = Offset: 336
A401 = 0
A402 = 0
A403 = 0
A404 = 1/1
A405 = 75
A406 = 0
A407 = 0
A408 = 1
A409 = 2
A40A = 0
A40C = 0

[Camera]
Exposure Time = 1/200"
F Number = F1.8
Exposure Program = Shutter priority
Exif Version = Version 2.21
Date Time Original = 2009-03-07 20:52:16
Date Time Digitized = 2009-03-07 20:52:16
Components Configuration = YCbcr
Compressed Bits Per Pixel = 4
Exposure Bias Value = ±0EV
Max Aperture Value = F1.74
Metering Mode = Pattern
Light Source = unknown
Flash = Flash fired, auto mode, return light detected
Focal Length = 50mm
Maker Note = 30536 Byte
User Comment =
Subsec Time =
Subsec Time Original =
Subsec Time Digitized =
Flashpix Version = Version 1.0
Color Space = sRGB
Exif Image Width = 2000
Exif Image Height = 3008
Sensing Method = One-chip color area sensor
File Source = DSC
Scene Type = A directly photographed image
CFA Pattern =

[Thumbnail Info]
Compression = JPEG Compressed (Thumbnail)
X Resolution = 300
Y Resolution = 300
Resolution Unit = inch
JPEG Interchange Format = Offset: 31448
JPEG Interchange Format Length = Length: 8615
YCbCr Positioning = co-sited

[Thumbnail]
Thumbnail = 120 x 160

[MakerNote (Nikon)]
Makernote Version = 0210
ISO Speed Used = 720
Quality = FINE
White Balance = AUTO
Sharpening = AUTO
Focus Mode = AF-A
Flash Setting = NORMAL
Auto Flash Mode = Optional,TTL
White Balance Bias Value = 0
000D = 00, 01, 06, 00
Exposure Diff = E8, 01, 0C, 00
ThumbOffset = 1662
Flash Compensation = 06, 01, 06, 00
ISO Speed Requested = 200
Photo corner coordinates = 0, 0, 3008, 2000
0017 = 00, 01, 06, 00
Flash Bracket Compensation Applied = 00, 01, 06, 00
AE Bracket Compensation Applied = 0EV
001D = D50
Tone Compensation (Contrast) = AUTO
Lens Type = 2
Lens Min/Max Focal Length, Max Aperture = 500/10, 500/10, 18/10, 18/10
Flash Used = 3
Auto Focus Area = 01, 00, 00, 01
Bracketing & Shooting Mode = 33
008A = 0
008B = 58, 01, 0C, 00
Colour Mode = MODE3a
Lighting Type = SPEEDLIGHT
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Hue Adjustmen = 0
Noise Reduction = OFF
0097 = 30, 32, 30, 35, DA, 61, E9, 5E, B0, F7, 37, 54, 77, 7E, 74, 59, 2D, F0, A3, 8D, D2, 52, C1, 1D, 68, 3C, C8, E1, EF, E7, CC, A1, 65, 18, BA, 4B, CA, 3A, 9E, FA, 22, EC, 63, D1, 67, 50, 20, A9, 9F, E7, D6, 34, C7, 25, 70, A1, D8, 0F, FE, BB, DF, 21, 7C, 2C, D7, 57, E8, CE, BB, DF, 48, D5, 93, E1, 94, 5C, 16, 5C, 90, 3B, 4E, D2, 46, 21, B0, 71, 20, C2, 49, 44, 2E, 99, EE, 96, 2F, F3, 64, A8, 19, 59, AB, DA, F8, 05, 01, EC, C6, 8F, 47, EE, 84, 09, 7D, E0, 32, 73, A3, C2, D0, CD, B9, 94, 5E, 17, BF, 56, DC, 51, B5, 08, 4A, 7B, 9B, AA, A8, 6A, 71, C3, F6, 60, 37, 41, 34, 66, ED, CF, 62, 7C, 93, 6D, 80, A2, 29, 1B, 8E, D8, AF, D9, 8C, 1E, 25, A7, 7A, 74, 8B, 85, 58, 25, E1, 8C, 26, AF, 27, 8E, E4, 29, 5D, 80, 92, 93, 83, 62, 30, ED, 99, 34, BE, 37, 9F, F6, 3C, 71, 95, A8, AA, 9B, 7B, 4A, 08, B5, 51, DC, 56, BF, 17, 5E, 94, B9, CD, D0, C2, A3, 73, 32, E0, 7D, 09, 84, EE, 47, 8F, C6, EC, 01, 05, F8, DA, AB, 6B, 1A, B8, BA, C1, D3, 86, 30, 07, D1, 44, B6, 3D, DF, F2, 4C, 63, FD, 90, F2, 79, 2B, 1E, A8, 7F, 69, 9C, 6E, 75, B7, 0A, 44, 5B, 15, 68, 04, 3F, 7C, B3, DA, F7, FE, F4, D8, DE, 71, 2D, 3B, AF, D2, 5C, 51, E9, 1E, 7D, AB
0098 = 30, 32, 30, 31, FE, 79, E1, 51, E0, 8C, 66, 29, 2F, 2E, 24, 4D, 39, 8A, B6, 54, 91, 61, 83, 1A, 69, A4, CE, E7, EF, E4, C9
009A = 78/10, 78/10
00A0 =
00A2 = 2694661
00A3 = 0
Total Number of Shutter Releases for Camera = 6906
00A8 = 30, 31, 30, 30, 01, 36, 02, 05, 04, 01, 00, 32, 00, 00, 00, 00, 00, 00, 00, 00
Image optimisation = CUSTOM
Saturation = ENHANCED
Digital Vari-Program =


Phil

[philwojo]

Ok, I was able to resolve my FTP issue and I have uploaded the 4 pics to my own web space. I have edited the 2 posts that contain those pictures and they now should have the exif data.

Phil

[philwojo]

Any more suggestions guys?

[Ray Schnoor]

First off, it looks as if the exif is still not showing up in your photos. Second, it looks as if you have auto ISO turned on in the camera. Turn that off and set ISO to 200. Point the flash towards the ceiling for bounce instead of behind you. Do you have the flash set for TTL? You could also try vivid in the optimize image menu on the camera.

Ray.

[philwojo]

I cut and pasted some exif info in to this thread, for the 1st 2 photo's. I tried yesterday and I was able to pull the exif off the photo's in here also, but maybe it's not working.

I think TTL is set on, I didn't change any settings on the flash out of the box.

I do have it set for auto iso, but I can force it to 200, and will try that.

I will point the flash up or sideways and see what happens, but most of the time, instead of backward it was pointed almost at 90 degrees to the shot.

I do have it set to vivid now in the image menu, if I remember correctly.

[Rooz]

phil, all the exif is not there. email me a couple of non resized photos if you like.

[K1W1]

I do have it set for auto iso, but I can force it to 200, and will try that.

People who know much more about flashing than I do keep telling me to use ISO400.

[mugsisme]

People who know much more about flashing than I do keep telling me to use ISO400.

When ever I use a flash, I always lower my ISO as low as possible. One more thing, which is sort of obvious, but people sometimes forget .. make sure your batteries are as fresh or freshly charged as possible.


Ill borow this thread because you are just talking about diffuser.

Can you point the flash directly on subject with diffuser on or it is still not good idea ?

I was going to say this word for word about hijacking this post!

How come you should never, ever point a flash at people, even with a diffuser?

[Rooz]

if you want a balanced flash look, ie: flash is not your only primary source of light, your iso should be much higher than 200. 400 is a good base, but i'm often much, much higher than that indoors.

[XaiLo]

How come you should never, ever point a flash at people, even with a diffuser?

A better question may be why it is not practical in some instances. The main reason would be harse specular highlights which are created from the flash being a small light source. They tend to blow out detail, color, tonality, and produces unsightly contrast. ie. snapshot.

[Visual Reality]

I use 400 because its a good balance with noise on the D300. It gives clean pictures, but it also seems to "pick up" light from the flash better, at greater distances than 200. You can use higher ISO with flash because your exposure is much better, and you will have less noise than normal.

[philwojo]

Well, I appreciate all of the help so far. I just emailed Rooz the 4 photo's, not sure why the exif is not showing up, or what I'm doing wrong on that end.

My batteries were low, but I didn't have my charger with, so nothing I could do about that. And, they were low on both the camera and flash, but the flash didn't show up until I was almost done.

I had no idea to use a higher iso with flash, so I've already learned something new.

thanks,
Phil

[achuang]

If I'm shooting with on camera flash then I usually use ISO 400, or 800 depending on how far the wall or ceiling I'm bouncing off is. Try not to ever use direct flash even with a diffuser. A diffuser is what it says, and just spreads the light out in all directions. This is useful in bouncing the flash. But as Xailo said the light source is still the same size. And the larger the light source the softer it is.

[RichNY]

I think you will have a much easier time if you change your approach a little.

1. Shoot in manual mode instead of Shutter Priority
2. Shoot in TTL rather than TTL BL mode (more consistent)
3. Use a shutter speed of 1/250 if you don't want to allow ambient in or lower the shutter speed if you want more ambient for the backgrounds.

- Another reason many people up their ISO on flash shots is because it shortens the flash recycle time.

[philwojo]

Thanks Rich.

I have never shot in full manual, and I am not sure I am totally comfortable with doing that yet. Not sure I would know the best aperture or shutter speed to use in a situation. I normally shoot in "P" mode, and have recently been trying to use the "A and S" modes to get more comfortable. Don't always get the shot I want in A or S as I don't have the right settings for the situation, and then I can miss the shot.

I will have to check the flash, not sure what it comes set to for default out of the box, but that is what it is on for me.

thanks,
Phil

[K1W1]

I have never shot in full manual, and I am not sure I am totally comfortable with doing that yet. Not sure I would know the best aperture or shutter speed to use in a situation.

Are you worried about wasting film? :)

On advice from others I just start in M at 1/125 sec and f5.6 with ISO 400.
Don't forget that you can't use the cameras exposure meter because that will try to expose correctly for the available light not the light output from the flash.
When you hit the trigger the camera and flash will combine magically to create an image with the correct exposure. The actual length of time the flash exposes is way less the 1/125 sec so even at the relatively slow speed you will get stop action for people and objects moving at normal people speed.

Run around the house to night taking photos of anything thta moves or doesn't move and don't worry about the film cost any longer.

[K1W1]

flash is not your only primary source of light,

I know it's semantics but you can't have more than one primary anything. :D

[philwojo]

Yea not worried about film, but missing the shot, like while on vacation in Egypt or something and not being able to get it back easily. Or think of missing a glacier calving (breaking off) in Alaska and having it set wrong.

Those have been my concerns. I just need to play more and figure it out. Other than me and the wife, nothing moving around the house, and she won't let me take random pictures of her, so won't be easy. And it's on 25F outside today, so don't really wanna be out there snapping away to cold.

I'll start playing and see what I can do, just hoping to get some direction on these types of shots and using the flash more effectively.

Phil

[Rooz]

I think you will have a much easier time if you change your approach a little.

1. Shoot in manual mode instead of Shutter Priority
2. Shoot in TTL rather than TTL BL mode (more consistent)
3. Use a shutter speed of 1/250 if you don't want to allow ambient in or lower the shutter speed if you want more ambient for the backgrounds.

- Another reason many people up their ISO on flash shots is because it shortens the flash recycle time.

Rich, this is for proper set up portraits where you want the flash to be your only lightsource. i dont think thats gonna work in this case.

phil, i got your shots. these are some things that are causing some issues for you:

flash has +1EV
shooting at 1.8 is the least sharp and the lowest contrast
50/1.8 has no hood
WB on auto.
iso on auto

its hard to tell from one shoot what you could do to improve cos there are so many things about the venue that could significantly effect the result. i'd keep trying with the flash but try a couple of things first.

shoot raw if possible
shoot in manual mode, (not manual flash, manual camera)
use flash WB
flash EV to 0 to begin with
shoot the 50/1.8 at least at f2, preferabley at 2.8
think about getting a hood for the 50
take iso auto off and start off at iso400
always bounce it, never direct flash

[K1W1]

Yea not worried about film, but missing the shot, like while on vacation in Egypt or something and not being able to get it back easily. Or think of missing a glacier calving (breaking off) in Alaska and having it set wrong.

I'm not sure that you would be using a flash to take the glacier shots. If you were that close they would probably never recover the camera even if they did find your body.
The only way to learn is to practice so just practice. If there is nothing moving in the house who cares, shoot stationery objects. What you are trying to do is learn to instinctively change to the correct or nearly correct settings for a situation so just look at something, shoot it, look at the result on the camera LCD, check the histogram on the LCD then delete the file and go again. If the file looks half reasonable keep it and transfer it to a PC so you can see it better then delete it. Take 5 or 10 shots of the clock on the wall or a vase of flowers or anything at different settings and look how changes affect the outcome of the shot. You can't learn without releasing the shutter.

[Visual Reality]

I'm not sure that you would be using a flash to take the glacier shots. If you were that close they would probably never recover the camera even if they did find your body.
:eek:

:D

[XaiLo]

Try this:

http://www.strobist.blogspot.com/

[philwojo]

Thanks guys, this is a great start for me. Still not sure about RAW, but I will try full manual mode on the camera.

Not sure how the flash got to +1EV, but I will drop that back to zero. No hood, but maybe I should get one. I didn't even think about WB, I need to remember that and keep it out of Auto and start really using WB as I should. Again, still in the learning phases to create better shots. The 50 was in 1.8 due to the fact that I had it in "S" mode on the camera, it selected that for me, so going to manual would help that as well.

K1W1, to funny with the glacier comment, I wasn't saying I'd use a flash for that, but I get your point, just shot and learn as I go. I did try some shots of the moon here last night, it was a killer looking orange as it was lower in the sky. But I got home to late and the battery on the camera was almost dead. That and by the time I got all setup it had risen up and lost the orange color. Then I was totally over exposing everything when shooting the moon, so still learning with that also.

I have not looked at xailo's link yet, but will. I truly appreciate the help and feedback on this for myself. I look at the shots you guys make in the POD thread and I am so jealous, and I want mine to look 1/2 as good as those and I'd be the envy of all my family and friends.

Thanks again, I might post back to this thread at some point after trial and error looking for more help.

Phil

[K1W1]

One thing many people do is have a "default" set up for their camera. For example have the camera set to RAW, ISO200, AWB, matrix metering and Aperture priority plus an empty memory card. (this is only an example but it's probably as good as any to start with). ALWAYS reset your camera to the default setting when you finish shooting that way when ever you pick the camera up you have an instinctive feeling for where it is in relationship to the scene.
It makes it much easier to quickly change one or two parameters rather than going through the whole menu system to see where you are.

[Rooz]

Thanks again, I might post back to this thread at some point after trial and error looking for more help.

Phil
this is a good place to start phil.
http://www.planetneil.com/tangents/flash-photography-techniques/1-natural-looking-flash/