Got my SONY DSLR camera ... what next?

[DonSchap]

Many folks have asked the obvious question … “What lens should I get since this ‘kit lens’ is not doing it (http://www.dpreview.com/lensreviews/sony_18-70_3p5-5p6_m15/page4.asp) (<- click here for review) for me?”

Well, here’s a suggested route that is a pretty “routine” cost-control TAMRON lens approach:

Single lens replacement solution for the SONY DT 18-70mm f/4-5.6 (<- toss this lens)

SONY or TAMRON 18-250 f/3.5-6.3 ~$400
41834 (http://www.tamron.com/lenses/prod/18250_diII.asp)
(Click on lens image for more detail)


Multiple lens approach

1) (Normal zoom lens - for APS-C sensor cameras) TAMRON SP AF 17-50mm f/2.8 XR Di-II LD ~$440
41838 (http://www.tamron.com/lenses/prod/1750_diII_a016.asp)
(Click on lens image for more detail)

OR ...

. . . option 1a) (Normal zoom lens - Full Frame sensor cameras) TAMRON SP AF 28-75mm f/2.8 XR Di LD MACRO ~$440
41836 (http://www.tamron.com/lenses/prod/2875mm.asp)
(Click on lens image for more detail)


OR ...

. . . option 1b) (Normal zoom lens - APS-C sensor cameras) SONY CZ 16-80mm f/3.5-4.5 DT ~$700
43325 (http://www.sonystyle.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10551&storeId=10151&langId=-1&productId=11039065)
(Click on lens image for more detail)


OR ...

. . . option 1c) (Normal zoom lens - Full Frame sensor cameras) SIGMA AF 24-70mm f/2.8 IF EX DG HSM ~$900
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r289/donschap/camera%20stuff/SIGMA24-70.jpg (http://www.photo4less.com/pd-productid-3280-source-CashbackSearch.htm)
(Click on lens image for more detail)


2) ("basic" Telephoto zoom lens) TAMRON AF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 Di LD MACRO ~$150
41837 (http://www.tamron.com/lenses/prod/70300_di_a017.asp)
(Click on lens image for more detail)

OR ...

. . . option 2a) ("advanced" Telephoto zoom lens) TAMRON SP AF 70-200mm f/2.8 Di LD MACRO ~$775
41835 (http://www.tamron.com/lenses/prod/70200_di.asp)
(Click on lens image for more detail)

3) (Super telephoto zoom lens) TAMRON SP AF 200-500mm f/5-6.3 Di LD ~$850
41839 (http://www.tamron.com/lenses/prod/200500mm.asp)
(Click on lens image for more detail)

4) (Ultra/Wide Angle zoom lens) TAMRON SP AF 10-24mm f/3.5-4.5 Di-II LD Aspherical (IF) ~$500
41833 (http://www.tamron.com/lenses/prod/1024_diII.asp)
(Click on lens image for more detail)

OR ...

. . . option 4a) (Ultra/Wide Angle zoom lens) SIGMA AF 10-20mm f/4-5.6 DC EX HSM ~$500
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r289/donschap/camera%20stuff/SIGMA10-20.jpg (http://www.sigmaphoto.com/lenses/lenses_all_details.asp?id=3301&navigator=6)
(Click on lens image for more detail)


After you have these four lenses in your bag, you are lookin' good and should not miss much! ;)

Also, get an external flash, either the HVL-F58AM (http://www.sonystyle.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10551&storeId=10151&langId=-1&productId=8198552921665462455) or HVL-F42AM (http://www.sonystyle.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10151&catalogId=10551&langId=-1&productId=8198552921665337928&categoryId=32340) (Make sure you try out both units before you decide).

Now, of course there are going to be specialty photographers, asking about dedicated 1:1 MACRO lenses, of which there are four for consideration.

1) SONY AF 100mm f/2.8 1:1 MACRO (http://www.sonystyle.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10551&storeId=10151&langId=-1&productId=11035437) ~$550
45229
(Click on lens image for more detail)

OR ...

. . . option 1a) TAMRON SP AF 90mm f/3.5 Di 1:1 MACRO (the "bargain" of the bunch) ~$400
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r289/donschap/camera%20stuff/90mm.jpg (http://www.tamron.com/lenses/prod/90mm.asp)
(Click on lens image for more detail)

OR ...

. . . option 1b) TAMRON SP AF60mm F2 Di-II LD (IF) 1:1 MACRO (provides the same "effective size" image on APS-C DSLR as the 90mm Di does on the Full Frame DSLR) This new release includes two LD elements to improve CA response and also is an (IF) lens which, just like the 180mm f/3.5 Di, does not change outer dimension when focusing, thereby not scaring away your more jittery MACRO subjects. ~$500
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r289/donschap/camera%20stuff/60mm.gif (http://www.tamron.com/lenses/prod/60mm.asp)
(Click on lens image for more detail)

2) TAMRON SP AF 180mm f/3.5 Di LD 1:1 MACRO (IF) ~$600
41841 (http://www.tamron.com/lenses/prod/180mm.asp)
(Click on lens image for more detail)

All four lenses function quite well as MACROs, but the 180 'advantage':

a) allows you to move further back;
b) does not change physical size (as you focus)
c) detachable tripod ring
d) has better optics inside it to alleviate Chromatic Aberration (usually a red and green color spread around objects) due to close-up focusing through a telephoto.

"But Don ... I need a really 'bright' lens for those darker, indoor shots. What do you suggest?"

A: Well, a Minolta AF 50mm f/1.7 is a good choice, mainly due to the fact it was the "most produced" Minolta lens ever made. It can be had for around $100-125, in good shape. The next choice would be to get a hold of a SONY AF 50mm f/1.4 lens. They also are quite numerous, but cost roughly $350.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r289/donschap/camera%20stuff/Mf17-Mf14-Sf14.jpg


Personally, though, I think you will have better results using the TAMRON 17-50mm f/2.8 @ f/2.8 and an external flash, if necessary. Using apertures wider than f/2.8 usually results in "soft looking" subjects.

Here is a heck of a list of SONY/Minolta & Konica-Minolta lenses (http://www.mhohner.de/sony-minolta/lenses.php) (<- click this link) you can chose from, also. Definitely worth a look-see.

Okay .... I guess we are done, here. Any questions? LOL :D

Remember: if your lens came in a plain, sticker-labeled or stenciled box, inside the camera's original box ... it is time to start looking for a new lens.

[dr4gon]

Looks great. I had forgotten about the 10-24mm. I've been looking at the Sigma 10-20mm, but am wary of sigma and just haven't been too impressed.

Looks pretty good though...


Samples: http://www.flickr.com/photos/21132603@N07/sets/72157607446178520/

You should add a flash addon detailing maybe the advantages of the 58 over the 42 over the 36.


.... I'm slowly working down the list! :D

[e_dawg]

That's good advice, Don. I recommend the Tamron 17-50/2.8 to every Canikon owner who asks me "what lens should I get".

Unfortunately, I recommended one to my friend who just got a Nikon D300, and it apparently has front-focus issues. I am going to test it out for him on my bodies to confirm whether that is the case or not.

[DonSchap]

Well, that would be a shame because I had similar issues with several TAMRON SP AF 28-75mm f/2.8 XR Di LD Aspherical (IF) MACRO lenses. One Canon-mount (2006), one SONY-mount (July 2008) and another fellow photog with his own SONY-mount (Aug 2008).

I had mine successfully corrected by TAMRON, but the other photog took his back w/o replacement.

I sincerely hope they aren't seeing this happen with the 17-50, now. That would be disastrous. :o

[AJ Gressette]

Indoors Low Light Photography.

I guess I am a little old fashion.:p I started out in photography before zooms were so popular.

Sometimes it’s a challenge to teach an old dog new tricks.:rolleyes:

My personal preference for indoors: Minolta 100 f/2.0, Sony 135 f/1.8, Minolta 35or50 f/1.4 or Minolta 50 f/1.7 I do prefer the older color coatings of the older Minolta 35. The 100 f/2.0 had to be a mistake. Out of all the prime lenses Minolta ever produced, the 100 f/2.0 is (in my opinion) the sharpest (set at its widest aperture).

[BobJohnson]

To Don and the other informed ones:

Can you please detail your opinions on decent tripods? I'm going to Prague at the start of December for my first real photographic outing. By that I mean I have four full days during which I intend to do nothing but walk around with my camera whilst my girlfriend is at work :) I think I'll need a tripod to take with me but I know absolutely nothing about them.

I'm 6'2 and don't like bending over for long periods of time (?!). Can you recommend anything in the 'medium' price range?

Thanks in advance.

[e_dawg]

To Don and the other informed ones:

Can you please detail your opinions on decent tripods? [...]

I'm 6'2 and don't like bending over for long periods of time (?!). Can you recommend anything in the 'medium' price range?

I like the Manfrotto 190XPROB with the 804RC2 tilt/pan head (quick-release plate, lower cost) or the 322RC2 grip action ball head (for quick adjustments in the field, more expensive).

[sparkie1263]

Found these on ebay. There are more I was looking at them the other day.
Frank


http://cgi.ebay.com/MANFROTTO-190XPROB-PRO-ALU-TRIPOD-BOGEN-BLACK-NEW_W0QQitemZ250323001846QQcmdZViewItemQQptZTripod s_Monopods?hash=item250323001846&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1234|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A13 18


http://cgi.ebay.com/MANFROTTO-BOGEN-804RC2-PAN-TILT-HEAD-w-QCK-LOCK-NEW_W0QQitemZ220309626407QQcmdZViewItemQQptZTripod s_Monopods?hash=item220309626407&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A13 18

[sparkie1263]

Here is one with the head 100.00 no bids yet.
Frank

http://cgi.ebay.com/Bogen-Manfrotto-055XDB-Tripod-with-804RC2-Pan-Tilt-Head_W0QQitemZ140281463959QQcmdZViewItemQQptZTripo ds_Monopods?hash=item140281463959&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A13 18

[BobJohnson]

thanks guys. I'm English so I'll have a look at what our Brit ebay has in terms of those models.

great stuff :)

[seanhoxx]

Bob maybe for walking around the city, and there are lots of bumpy stone streets in Prauge you may want to look at a good quality monopod. easier to carry and set up, don't have as big a foot print in congested areas, can move around pretty well with camera on it and be ready to go. Manfrotto makes one that is free standing with retractable legs in the base. This is therory from my research as I haven't bought one yet.

[seanhoxx]

Don, at some point in time I know I need to fill out my bottom range in glass, I keep going back to the will I use a UWA enough to justify it? I know you have made posts before on this topic so no need to rehash it, but a few comments and advice for the need of a UWA, any thoughts on the Sony lens that is supposed to be comming?

[dr4gon]

Don, at some point in time I know I need to fill out my bottom range in glass, I keep going back to the will I use a UWA enough to justify it? I know you have made posts before on this topic so no need to rehash it, but a few comments and advice for the need of a UWA, any thoughts on the Sony lens that is supposed to be comming?

Which one? the 16-35mm zeiss? that's more of a UWA for the FF since it's essentially a 11-21mm aps-c lens

The UWA is great for getting a sense of perspective of a large area (landscape) and can also be used creatively to show many other things like (for example) an outstretched hand holding something with a distorted background

[seanhoxx]

As I don't pay a lot of attention to sony lenses and am not up on UWA's I'm not sure if it was the 16-35 CZ, did I read somewhere about a 10-20 or 10-24 from Sony or am I confusing it with Tamron, and somebody has a 11-18mm out right but that seems like a pretty tight range? I guess I could just look it up LOL

[DonSchap]

There has been a lot of debate on whether to use a TAMRON SP AF 17-50mm f/2.8 XR Di-II LD in panorama mode or to pop $500 for the SIGMA AF 10-20mm f/4-5.6 DC EX or the new TAMRON SP AF 10-24mm f/3.5-4.5 Di-II LD lens.

Man, talk about rationalization, huh?

The beauty of the UWA is that you get everything in view in ONE SHOT. Sometimes (weddings, usually), you will be right on top of your subject and cannot back up to get the entire shot (most annoying). You reach into your bag and grab the UWA. That's what it is for. Light loss is minimal, because you are, literally, right there!

Other issues are architectural shots, where the building is just so wide or tall ... and you can only go to the other side of the street. No tripod. Yep, UWA time. Still, you could still consider the panorama idea, the building isn't going anywhere ... and it doesn't BLINK!

UWA = Convenience, plain and simple. In this rush, rush world we occupy, no one seems to have a lot of time to compose their shots. Too busy trying to get to something else. Who knew? :rolleyes:

I would say, the minute that TAMRON becomes available, buy one. It has the WIDEST reach (10-24mm) of a lens of its class. That is truly useful and hard to argue down for a mere $500. For SONY APS-C sensors ... it's all she wrote.

Some others on the market are:

SIGMA AF 10-20mm f/4-5.6 DC EX
TAMRON SP AF 11-18mm f/4.5-5.6 Di-II LD
SONY DT 11-18mm f/4.5-5.6
Minolta AF DT 11-18 f/4.5-5.6
SIGMA 12-24 f/4.5-5.6 EX DG

Just to name a few ...

[seanhoxx]

The new Tamron is also a faster lens, not sure how much that matters for UWA but maybe indoor shots?

[DonSchap]

Well, Tokina built an even "faster" UWA ... f/2.8 ... but, it cannot be mounted on a SONY/Minolta.

Oh yeah, (news flash for those who may not be aware) no current Tokina lens can be mounted on a SONY DSLR camera! Oh well! :rolleyes: Maybe if "the gathered multitude" made enough NOISE, that could change (hint, hint).

41918
AT-X 116 11-16mm f/2.8 DX Pro (Nikon-mount shown)

Besides, the edges tend to get a little "rough looking", at those wide apertures.

[seanhoxx]

I wonder if and when the time comes will Tokina repair my 80-400mm AT-X if I need it done?

[laydros]

Is there any way we can get this stickied? I know this was one of the first things I wanted to know about when I joined the forum, and I'm sure the same is going to be true for many others.

[DonSchap]

Personally, if I were starting out all over again, and I wasn't trying to be crazy about what I spent and still wanted "top drawer" imagery ... I would buy the following, without hesitation:

1. SONY A700 ($999 @ SONY Style, on line)
2. SONY CZ 16-80mm f/3.5-4.5 ($699)
3. TAMRON SP AF 70-200mm f/2.8 Di LD MACRO ($699)
4. SONY HVL-F58AM Electronic Flash ($449)


I would then pick up a TAMRON SP AF 10-24mm f/3.5-4.5 Di-II LD Ultra Wide-Angle lens ($499) to get the wide stuff ... and then for the Super-telephoto, the TAMRON SP AF 200-500mm f/5-6.3 Di LD lens ($799) to finish it up.

There just will be little need to ever upgrade this kit, unless you need superior imaging (inspected by pros). Until you have the first four items in this list, don't even worry about anything else. LOL You have work to do .. and just get them.

Bottom line, here: I am just trying to save you some valuable time, if you have the cash for it. This would be a one stop shop for your SONY pack out.

[laydros]

Personally, if I were starting out all over again, and I wasn't trying to be crazy about what I spent and still wanted "top drawer" imagery ... I would buy the following, without hesitation:

1. SONY A700 ($999 @ SONY Style, on line)
2. SONY CZ 16-80mm f/3.5-4.5 ($699)
3. TAMRON SP AF 70-200mm f/2.8 Di LD MACRO ($699)
4. SONY HVL-F58AM Electronic Flash ($449)


I would then pick up a TAMRON SP AF 10-24mm f/3.5-4.5 Di-II LD Ultra Wide-Angle lens ($499) to get the wide stuff ... and then for the Super-telephoto, the TAMRON SP AF 200-500mm f/5-6.3 Di LD lens ($799) to finish it up.

There just will be little need to ever upgrade this kit, unless you need superior imaging (inspected by pros). Until you have the first four items in this list, don't even worry about anything else. LOL You have work to do .. and just get them.

Bottom line, here: I am just trying to save you some valuable time, if you have the cash for it. This would be a one stop shop for your SONY pack out.

What about for low light and shallow depth of field? Primes or fast zooms?

Seems like you can pick up the Tammy f/2.8 17-50 or the 28-75 for the same price as a couple of primes to cover the same range. But do the primes provide better image quality?

[Visual Reality]

laydros, short answer yes. Usually they can attain sharper results and smoother background blur.

[DonSchap]

PRIMEs offer one limitation ... the "ZOOM" is on you. Two-steps forward ... two back ... get the framing right.

The widest aperture currently available in a "Zoom" lens is f/2.8

While this is a good and reasonable bokeh, it does lack that artful flair. You need a wider aperture lens to really get "down & dirty" with smoothing the background blur. Personally, beyond a 50mm f/1.7 or f/1.4 PRIME ... I, personally, cannot say which lens anyone should go with. There are different requirements depending on subject, distance and the amount of bokeh desired. The current Minolta or SONY 35mm f/1.4 G PRIME returns the APS-C sensor camera back to what people used to see using a 50mm f/1.4 (aka "normal"). Unfortunately, the costs involved with owning this lens are three times that of the 50mm f/1.4.

On the other side of the 50mm, there is the Minolta 85mm f/1.4 G or SONY CZ 85mm f/1.4 ... which both react the same way a 135mm did on the film cameras. Both are excellent choices for a portrait lens, when used in concert with the APS-C sensor camera. Also, they come with a significant price tag (~$1100)

Also, there is the added feature of being able to avoid using a flash, indoors. With the wider aperture, your capture of indoor athletic events is much improved, over the zoom. The Depth of Field will be a bit of a struggle, but you can adapt that by distance and being light on your feet. There are plenty of other discussions for that. Wisdom says you should have at least one prime in your bag ... for those times where flash is just not an option.

[SONYNUT]

Which one of those lenses are metal. Glass?

[dr4gon]

They're all glass inside ;) I remember a post on DPR where someone thought the kit lens was plastic inside (and that's what caused its low quality) lol.

[Peekayoh]

Just a thought, but plastics have been used for high quality lenses as well as in disposable cameras.
A precision ground Aspheric Lens is expensive because, unlike a sperical lens, the grinding process is complex, long and not suitable for mass production.
A hybrid" Aspheric Lens involves the use of plastic molded onto optical glass. They might call it "optical quality resin" but it's still plastic. This method has/is widely used but has drawbacks due to dimensional instability.
In the late 90's techniques for moulding glass to make Aspheric Lenses were developed as an improved alternative to plastic.
I have no idea to what extent this method has replaced the hybrid lens.

[DonSchap]

Here is a link to very well done list of SONY/Minolta & Konica-Minolta lenses (http://www.mhohner.de/sony-minolta/lenses.php) (<- click this link).

Definitely worth a look, in my opinion, just in case you are looking for glass. :D

[mish13]

Personally, if I were starting out all over again, and I wasn't trying to be crazy about what I spent and still wanted "top drawer" imagery ... I would buy the following, without hesitation:

1. SONY A700 ($999 @ SONY Style, on line)
2. SONY CZ 16-80mm f/3.5-4.5 ($699)
3. TAMRON SP AF 70-200mm f/2.8 Di LD MACRO ($699)
4. SONY HVL-F58AM Electronic Flash ($449)


I would then pick up a TAMRON SP AF 10-24mm f/3.5-4.5 Di-II LD Ultra Wide-Angle lens ($499) to get the wide stuff ... and then for the Super-telephoto, the TAMRON SP AF 200-500mm f/5-6.3 Di LD lens ($799) to finish it up.

There just will be little need to ever upgrade this kit, unless you need superior imaging (inspected by pros). Until you have the first four items in this list, don't even worry about anything else. LOL You have work to do .. and just get them.

Bottom line, here: I am just trying to save you some valuable time, if you have the cash for it. This would be a one stop shop for your SONY pack out.

The Sony A700 body only is $1699.00 here and the CZ 16-80 was $1200 now it has gone up another $150.
I wish we could get them at the prices you can, I should have grabbed one from theh states when our dollar was at 99cents to the American dollar

[Rooz]

does the tokina 11-16/2.8 not come in a sony mount ?

[DonSchap]

does the tokina 11-16/2.8 not come in a sony mount ?

No ... Tokina and SONY went their separate ways back in 2005, when Minolta did the "death-roll." I wrote to Tokina, asking when they were going to resume the manufacture of the SONY mount and they wrote back, stating there were "no plans, at this time."

So, there it is. I do not believe SONY is crying about it. They get exclusive sales on their own product. SIGMA and Phoenix seem to be the only non-SONY controlled entities that make such lenses.

Thanks for asking. LOL

[DonSchap]

SONY has a tutorial section in their Online Learning Center. It is a free service and is certainly recommended as a "tireless" solution on how to operate your new SONY DSLR.

(No longer in existence - terminated April 2010)

If you are interested in a more casual, yet focused perception of using the SONY DSLR ... you are invited to review the link suggestions on this thread (http://www.dcresource.com/forums/showpost.php?p=371685&postcount=9), as well as peruse the rest of the forum. A lot of ground has been covered on these pages and it really could fill a book.

[DonSchap]

The subject of PRIME Lenses was brought up and this really can be a real "mine field" to navigate, because there are various advantages to the different focal lengths and apertures.

The most dynamic aspect of a PRIME lens is Depth of Field (DOF). Having a short focal length PRIME lens with an ultra wide aperture (f/1.4 - f/1.8) provides a lot of light, but also a relatively deep DOF at close range. The same aperture and distance on a medium prime length PRIME tightens up that DOF considerably (shallow). On a telephoto PRIME lens, the DOF at wide aperture becomes very thin.

A couple of DOF examples:
f/1.8 @ distance of 10-ft

Focal length → DOF

24mm → 3.8-ft

35mm → 1.8-ft

50mm → 10-inches

85mm → 4-inches

135mm → 1.5-inches

Now, increasing the distance between you and your subject does have large effect, but the subject is reduced in size. Increasing to 20-ft, the subject is half as large. That can be a real problem with a wide angle lens, as the subject gets kind of 'lost' in all of the background:

Focal length → DOF

24mm → 17.5-ft

35mm → 7.3-ft

50mm → 3.5-ft

85mm → 14-inches

135mm → 6-inches

While this is hard to envision, without the accompanying images, you can kind of get the feel for the problem if you have a typical 17-50mm, 18-50mm, 18-55mm, 24-70mm or 18-70mm "kit" lens. Ignoring the DOF for a few moments, focus on your subject (10 feet away), then simply watch through the viewfinder as you zoom from 50mm down to 24mm. Now, step back 10 more feet (to a total distance of 20 feet) and do the same thing. Yeah, a lot more background to fight the "framing battle" with.

So, as you can probably tell ... picking the proper PRIME lens depends almost entirely on the situation. The low-light struggle with DOF has to be reconciled, before you spin wide open to f/1.4 or f/1.8, otherwise ... everyone may be bright, but they are going to look a little fuzzy around the edges.

So which PRIME lens to own? Well, generally speaking, the 50mm f/1.7 would be a place to start, because it is a relatively low-cost choice and splits the difference between wide and telephoto. The next one is a bit more difficult to choose, because the cost goes up considerably and kind of depends on whether you have a APS-C (α100, α200, α300, α350, α700) or a Full Frame (α900) sensor camera.
[I]


Here is a "short list" of available prime lenses w/ filter diameters* (non-MACRO despite description)

[B]Non-fisheye Wide Angle PRIME
۝ Samyang 14mm f/2.8 Rectilinear (manual lens w/ no filter ring)
۝ TAMRON 14mm f/2.8 Rectilinear (no filter ring)
۝ SIGMA 20mm f/1.8 EX DG ASPHERICAL RF ø82mm
۝ SONY 20mm f/2.8 ø72mm
۝ SIGMA 24mm f/1.8 EX DG ASPHERICAL MACRO ø77mm
۝ SIGMA 28mm f/1.8 EX DG MACRO ø77mm
۝ SONY 28mm f/2.8 ø49mm
۝ SIGMA 30mm f/1.4 EX DC HSM ø62mm
۝ SONY 35mm f/1.4 G ø55mm

Normal PRIME
۝ SIGMA 50mm f/1.4 EX DG HSM ø77mm
۝ SONY 50mm f/1.4 ø55mm
۝ SONY DT 50mm f/1.8 ø55mm
۝ Minolta 50mm f/1.4 ø49mm or ø55mm
۝ Minolta 50mm f/1.7 ø49mm or ø55mm


Telephoto PRIME
۝ Samyang 85mm f/1.4 ø72mm (Manual lens)
۝ SIGMA 85mm f/1.4 ø77mm
۝ SONY 85mm f/1.4 CZ ø77mm
۝ SONY 135mm f/1.8 CZ ø77mm
۝ SONY 135mm f/2.8 [4.5] STF ø72mm Manual Focus
۝ SONY 300mm f/2.8 G SSM ø42mm (internal)

* Some folks pick and choose their lenses to have similar filter-ring diameters to reduce filter costs, so I included it.

[DonSchap]

Here is a useful link, that kind of deals with the "Basics of the Photography" (http://d.yimg.com/kq/groups/23363243/347958004/name/Basics%20of%20Photography%2Edoc)

I guess I tire of people selling books on a 100plus-year-old subject that should be free, by now. This is nothing new ... so get reading and just learn ... for free.

If there are any non-SONY DSLR members reading this ... YES, you can also get something from reading this information. It is generic in nature ... so read up and hopefully you can find something useful to improve your understanding of the subject. Personally, I have always seemed to get a little something more from the materials.

[DonSchap]

Some of the special prime lenses are the MACROs and Fisheyes.

MACROs allow for a very close-up shot, with a very wide aperture (usually f/2.8), allowing for exceptional clarity, detail and extremely shallow depth of field, effectively "fuzzing out" the areas in front of and behind the subject.

Below is a check-listing of the "currently" available lenses:

MACRO PRIME
۝ SONY DT 30mm f/2.8 Macro(ø55mm)
۝ SIGMA 50mm f/2.8 EX DG (ø55mm)
۝ SONY 50mm f/2.8 (ø55mm)
۝ TAMRON 60mm f/2 Di-II 1:1 MACRO (ø55mm)
۝ SIGMA 70mm f/2.8 EX DG (ø62mm)
۝ TAMRON SP AF 90mm f/2.8 Di 1:1 MACRO (ø55mm)
۝ SONY 100mm f/2.8 Macro (ø55mm)
۝ SIGMA 105mm f/2.8 EX DG (ø58mm)
۝ SIGMA 150mm f/2.8 EX DG (ø72mm)
۝ SIGMA 180mm f/3.5 EX DG (ø72mm)
۝ TAMRON SP AF 180mm f/3.5 Di 1:1 MACRO (ø72mm)


Fisheye lenses offer a distorted aspect to your image, forgoing the rectilinear correction of the standard optic. Normally, because of the rather eccentric shape of the first element, these type of lenses cannot accommodate filters and therefore have no filter ring on the front of the lens. Many do have a gelatin-filter ring in the rear of the lens to add various "style" elements to the image.

Fisheye PRIME
۝ SIGMA 4.5mm f/2.8 EX DC Circular Fisheye HSM
۝ Samyang MF 8mm f/3.5 Circular Fisheye
۝ SIGMA 8mm f/3.5 EX DG Circular Fisheye
۝ SIGMA 10mm f/2.8 EX DC Fisheye HSM
۝ SIGMA 15mm f/2.8 EX DG Diagonal Fisheye
۝ SONY 16mm f/2.8 Fisheye

[DonSchap]

Updating has been done to original sticky in this thread ... to add the new lens releases.

[laydros]

A couple of notches up in the entry about primes you mention the +30 cameras as not having the screw drive AF capabilities, but after they were released we found out they did. We might want to update that for newbies.

[DonSchap]

Correction made ... speculation deleted.

[DonSchap]

One of the major issues we rarely discuss is the type of determination you need to use when you lift the camera to take a shot, as to the "type of shot" you are going to take. :rolleyes: Sedentary? Action? Hyper-Action?

In FULL AUTO (the newbie's favorite MODE position), your new (or old) DSLR is going to assume the subject is NOT moving and sitting relative still, so you can get the image. This one is relatively easy to do and has a high success factor in AUTO mode. As such, the camera is going to set itself ONLY for the exposure level of the lighting. The corresponding Shutter Speed, Aperture and ISO are not going to be anything special and probably based on the lens you have attached.

You might say a tripod is best used for AUTO, indoors. Everyone "hold it" and press the shutter release. Viola, an automatic picture with your expensive DSLR. Unfortunately, AUTO will not calculate the appropriate Shutter Speed for little Johnny, as he races past on his new bicycle.

Well, happily, your new camera is a little more useful than that ... and, normally, to "freeze" lil' Johnny, your shutter speed will have to be 1/250th or faster. The only way you are going to get that is usually by changing the MODE from AUTO to something else. You will basically need to set your MODE knob to "S" and use the thumbwheel to set 250/320/500 in your settings.

The camera will then use this "manually entered" shutter speed setting to calculate the other necessary settings for the Aperture and the ISO, to get the correct exposure (Ev=0).

Again, the Aperture will be limited to the base aperture of your selected lens. If you are using a lens that has a base aperture of f/5.6 ... these faster shutter speeds may not offer the necessary exposure for a good shot. You will know this, as the Aperture-setting will "flash" on and off, when you half-press the shutter release and activate the camera's metering system. If the exposure is out of range .... the setting flashes. It is telling you that you need to do SOMETHING to get the exposure correct. You might "up" the ISO to a higher setting (800, 1600) and provide enough illumination offset (Ev) of the sensor to compensate for this darker lens.

Another way to do this without a lot of trouble is to have a flash (HVL-F42AM or HVL-F58AM) handy, that will "pop" enough light at about 1/125th or 1/160th second shutter speed. The synchronized flash can then probably "freeze" little Johnny, too.

I would demonstrate this technique, but little Johnny has since rode off. He gets bored, easily, as you fiddle with your camera. ;)

[Casey78]

Hi all.

I have a couple of questions about upgrading from my kit lens.I have a Sony A500 btw.

I want to buy a Macro lens and a zoom lens.
My questions are.
A) Should I buy a dedicated Macro lens like this
http://www.pixmania.ie/ie/uk/3757965...-2-8-macr.html
or a Zoom type Macro lens like this?
http://www.pixmania.ie/ie/uk/5021173...-dc-macro.html

B) I want to buy a super zoom aswell and am looking at lenses like this
http://www.pixmania.ie/ie/uk/3661238...6-dg-os-l.html

Can anyone offer me any other advice,I would like to keep within a budget of around 800euro which is about $1000.

So to sum it all up,I want a Macro and a Zoom,and would it be worth getting a Macro/Zoom Combo and then a long range zoom or a dedicated Macro and a wide angle to long range zoom lens.

Was also looking at a fisheye! what ye think of this one
http://cgi.ebay.ie/Samyang-8mm-f-3-5...item1e609c0cae

I have a bit of money to spare at the moment so I really want to get a complete range while I can but as I'm not a pro photographer I really just need top quality but budget friendly gear.
Sorry lads I'm starting to ramble a bit now,I think ye know what I want/need at this stage,I hope someone can guide me in the right direction

Cheers

[Casey78]

None of my links seem to work so ignore them!
But the questions still remain the same

[DWessel]

None of my links seem to work so ignore them!
But the questions still remain the same

It would be helpful to know what you like to photograph and plan to photograph, especially with the macro lens.

If you want a true macro lens, you want one that has a 1:1 ratio. As far as I know, you're only going to find that ratio in a prime macro lens. But some of the zooms have decent ratios between 1:2.3 to 1:3. If you do a lot of macro photography, then I would say get one with a 1:1 ratio. If you want more versatility, I would look at a lens like the Sigma 17-70mm f/2.8-4.0 DC Macro Zoom Lens which has a 1:2.3 ratio and cost around $449 US at B&H.

[Kiwi-snapper]

Which should I get as a decent cheap 50mm prime? Minolta 50mm F1.7 or Sony SAL50F18?

Both are in the same price range, but the Minolta 1.4 is a jump up.

[DonSchap]

I had a trio of 50mm for the Minolta/SONY mount:

Minolta 50mm f/1.7
Minolta 50mm f/1.4
SONY 50mm f/1.4


The Minolta 50mm f/1.7 was perhaps the most prolific lens Minolta ever made and while it is considered to be a good piece of glass, compared to the SONY 50mm f/1.8, it does not hold a candle in overall performance to that you will get out of a SONY 50mm f/1.4 (ø55mm) or the SIGMA 50mm f/1.4 DG EX (ø72mm). Also, bear in mind that the Minolta 50mm f/1.4 and Minolta 50mm f/.4 have not been produced for the past 15-20 years. Lens fungus grows... over time.