Looking for dslr with manual manual controls

[Mr Magoo]

Budget - about $1000. Will go higher if the lens is really good. i.e. if I can buy just one good lens for wide and zoom.

Size - small dslr. Most of those new dslr's look big!

Features

How many megapixels will suffice for you? - 8 to 10

* What optical zoom will you need? (None, Standard = 3x-4x, Ultrazoom = 10x-12x, Other - Specify) - separate lens

* How important is “image quality” to you? (Rate using a scale of 1-10) - 8

Do you care for manual controls? - YES! It is mandatory that the 'manual' controls be genuinely manual. i.e. controlled with the hands. I need glasses to read now, but I don't ordinarily wear them, and I don't want to put them on to scroll through some menu on a LCD in the bright sunlight. With my old ME SuperProgram, I can do the following in the dark:
- switch from/to auto/manual aperture
- switch from/to auto/manual shutter speed
- turn on/off flash
- turn on/off timer
- adjust 'exposure' for excessive backlight/forelight
The viewfinder can be focused for my eyesight, and in the viewfinder I can set/see aperture and shutter speed.
My new camera has to allow me to perform the above by touch, without pulling out my glasses and putting them on!

General Usage

* What will you generally use the camera for? - amateur shots of people & places

* Will you be making big prints of your photos or not? - yes

Will you be shooting a lot of indoor photos or low light photos? - not a lot, but definitely some.

Will you be shooting sports and/or action photos? - not a lot, but definitely some.

Miscellaneous

Are there particular brands you like or hate? - no

Are there particular models you already have in mind? - no

(If applicable) Do you need any of the following special features? (Wide Angle, Image Stabilization, Weatherproof, Hotshoe, Rotating LCD) - would prefer image stabilization in the camera instead of in the lens (if I buy 2 lenses, I'd have to buy 2 images stabilization systems?????)

[Maverik]

if you want your image stabilization in the camera you'll be really limited to probably either pentax or olympus.

[raven15]

I admit I am not familiar with the controls of various camera manufacturer's. I can -after a few months- change everything but the timer on my Olympus E-410 in the dark (I could do the timer too, but I'd need too memorize how far to the left or right I need to go to get the right setting). I assume most models would allow similar functionality, especially the upper end models.

Image stabilization in the lens versus body is usually not a problem for the first lens or two. Paying for IS in the first lens is approximately the same as paying for IS in the body. Even two low-end IS lenses will not cost significantly more money than two lenses on an IS body. IS becomes expensive when you try to upgrade to higher end lenses and build a collection. So, IS in the body versus lens is not really an issue if you only plan to buy two lenses, particularly if they are the kit lenses. But, if you upgrade to more or better lenses, in-lens IS will become costly.

My preferred cameras would be, in no particular order:
Canon XSi: big beautiful view finder, nice camera all round, IS in lens. Yes, upgrade lenses are costly. But it's the best entry DSLR out there by a good distance.

Olympus E-520: All around good camera, highest number of useful features for the price, IS in body. The most likely upgrade lenses are the best you could get for anywhere close to the price.

Pentax K200: Nice camera, known for great ergonomics and high-quality construction. IS in body. (I haven't seen one, I'll let others comment more if they will).

Nikon D80 and Canon 40D, Pentax K20: Pushing the big side, definitely too big for me. But, they might have better control layouts.

What lenses you need will be very important, just as much if not more than the camera body. I'm not entirely sure what you are looking for in that department, but in my own experience the Olympus 14-54mm f/2.8-3.5 lens is ideal for what I think you are after. It is great lens for a great price. Others would also be very good, it's up to you...

[raven15]

I admit I am not familiar with the controls of various camera manufacturer's. I can -after a few months- change everything but the timer on my Olympus E-410 in the dark (I could do the timer too, but I'd need too memorize how far to the left or right I need to go to get the right setting). I assume most models would allow similar functionality, especially the upper end models.

Image stabilization in the lens versus body is usually not a problem for the first lens or two. Paying for IS in the first lens is approximately the same as paying for IS in the body. Even two low-end IS lenses will not be significantly more $$$ than two lenses on an IS body. IS becomes expensive when you try to upgrade to higher end lenses and build a collection. So, IS in the body versus lens is not really an issue if you only plan to buy two lenses, particularly if they are the kit lenses. But, if you upgrade, in lens IS will become fairly costly.

My preferred cameras would be, in no particular order:
Canon XSi: big beautiful view finder, nice camera all round, IS in lens. Yes, upgrade lenses are costly. But it's the best entry DSLR out there by a good distance.

Olympus E-520: All around good camera, highest number of useful features for the price, IS in body. The most likely upgrade lenses are the best you could get for anywhere close to the price.

Pentax K200: Nice camera, known for great ergonomics and high-quality construction. IS in body. (I haven't seen one, I'll let others comment more if they will).

Nikon D80 and Canon 40D: Pushing the big side, definitely too big for me. But, they might have better control layouts.

What lenses you need will be very important, just as much if not more than the camera body. I'm not entirely sure what you are looking for in that department, but in my own experience the Olympus 14-54mm f/2.8-3.5 lens is ideal for what I think you are after. It is great lens for a great price. Others would also be very good, it's up to you...

[JTL]

The best control layout I've seen is on the Nikon D300 (and the almost identical one on the D700). Almost every function is available via a button and/or command dial, plus most buttons (and the dial) are programmable. Once set up, you rarely, if ever, need to go to a menu again when shooting. So, what's the catch? The D300 is around $1,600.00 U.S. for the body only. But for that, you get one of the very best cameras available today (and you can kiss the menus goodbye!).