sigma 50mm f1.4

[bass7858]

anybody have a clue as to when we might gets some hands on reviews and possibly even when this new lens might be available? i notice its listed in their product now. hopefully soon.

[K1W1]

Sigma have a habit of announcing lenses then not delivering them for anything up to 6 months so I would not be holding my breath for either reviews or availability.

[jcon]

The Nikon 50mm 1.4 is available for purchase now! ;)

[erichlund]

The Nikon 50mm 1.4 is available for purchase now! ;)

I think it's the D40/D60 crowd that's most interested, because the Sigma is HSM.

[scupking]

Is there any 1.8-1.4 that will auto focus with the D40,D40x and D60?

[XaiLo]

Sigma 30mm 1.4 HSM, Amazon is listing it for 399.99 pretty decent lens. ;)

[emmabelle]

Newbie here, what are the advantages of a 50mm vs. a 30mm? I have a D40 and I was looking at buying the Sigma 30mm, would it be better to wait for a possible 50mm from Sigma?

[K1W1]

The 30mm Sigma fitted to a DSLR is the equivalent of a 45mm lens on a SLR so it's pretty much the "standard" lens length if that's what you want.
A 50mm lens fitted on a DSLR is the equivalent of 75mm on and SLR so it's getting more like the traditional portrait lens length of 85mm.

[erichlund]

Which is another way of saying, it depends on what you need. Do you need a normal lens or a short telephoto?

We don't know yet about the "quality" of the Sigma 50mm f1.4, but we do know that the 30mm is good...IF...you get a good sample. It may take several tries to get a good one. If you have a local Sigma dealer, you can try before you buy, but you probably won't get quite as good a price.

[emmabelle]

Thanks! What I mostly want it for is when I'm indoors in low light situations, I can't really go no flash because my lens doesn't seem to want to do it without a pretty low shutter speed. Even when I raise my ISO to 800.

[Rooz]

Thanks! What I mostly want it for is when I'm indoors in low light situations, I can't really go no flash because my lens doesn't seem to want to do it without a pretty low shutter speed. Even when I raise my ISO to 800.

1. using an f1.4 lens will give you better low light capability
2. using an f1.4 aperture will give you an extemely limited depth of field
3. using an f1.4 aperture makes it much harder to get your focus right
4. get a flash. learn how to use it and never look back.

[emmabelle]

4. get a flash. learn how to use it and never look back.


I know, I know, but I really love that shallow DoF. :D


I also wanted to use it at Disney World in the places that require you not to use a flash, would it not be good for that? :confused:

[erichlund]

You can still use f1.4 with flash, so you can still get the shallow depth of field.

[e_dawg]

Thanks! What I mostly want it for is when I'm indoors in low light situations, I can't really go no flash because my lens doesn't seem to want to do it without a pretty low shutter speed. Even when I raise my ISO to 800.

If it's indoors and you're in a small room or in a social setting (dinner, party, etc) then 30 mm is probably more useful. 50 mm can get a bit tight unless you are looking to do headshots or portrait photography indoors. If you're using this thing for longer distances, e.g., concert photography, sports, etc. then you might want a much longer high speed lens (85/1.4, 135/2, etc) depending how far you're away.

[emmabelle]

If it's indoors and you're in a small room or in a social setting (dinner, party, etc) then 30 mm is probably more useful. 50 mm can get a bit tight unless you are looking to do headshots or portrait photography indoors. If you're using this thing for longer distances, e.g., concert photography, sports, etc. then you might want a much longer high speed lens (85/1.4, 135/2, etc) depending how far you're away.

thanks, that helps. :)

[fionndruinne]

Flash can be excellent when used right for portraits, aye, but there are quite a few applications where getting natural light is better or more realistic, and then large aperture comes in handy. The 30mm might be handier for many of those, though.

Seems like the 30mm has a problem with less-than-sharp edges; since it's been out for awhile, I'm hoping the 50mm will correct this to an extent, and maybe they'll get on a version II of the 30mm.

[e_dawg]

I'm a little leery of Sigma at the moment after my mediocre 30/1.4 and my very soft 24-60/2.8. I'm sure I'll conveniently forget when they come out with a lens that I absolutely have to have, but until then, I think I will only buy Sigma if I can find it locally for a good price at a store that has a good returns / refund / exchange policy.

[aparmley]

1. using an f1.4 lens will give you better low light capability
2. using an f1.4 aperture will give you an extemely limited depth of field
3. using an f1.4 aperture makes it much harder to get your focus right
4. get a flash. learn how to use it and never look back.

I second these words of wisdom. When I was new DSLRs I wanted nothing but large aperture lenses for low light speed - and I was obsessed about it. I didn't want flash, I didn't like flash (ofcourse I didn't know anything about flash, but so what! I don't need it.) But, overtime, what I found is that most indoor situations I come across allow me about 1/10-1/50th of second SS at f/1.4 ISO 1600-3200. Useless. But, I don't always want to shoot at ISO1600-3200, I'd prefer 400 at the most. I fought flash for a long long time. . . . I know something that may help you (and possibly others) out:

Your lighting Journey (paraphrased)(read the whole article here (http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/11/lighting-journey-where-are-you.html) at the Strobist):

7 Stages of Lighting:



"So here they are. I'll spell them out, then tell you where I think I am. Think of your own station, and more important, the growth path you are on.


1. Available Light is Best

Many people work under the theory that available light is the only way to photograph. Or maybe they have been burned by bad flash. Or maybe they just do not know.

In many cases a lack of knowledge of quality light (or a fear of flash) leads to a defensive position that backs them into the corner of not creating it. In theory, this has nothing to do with strobe. But since continuous light is visible as you are shooting, the "math anxiety" feeling tends to center on strobe.

For many years we could get away with this as photojournalists because we shot black and white. But color, with various (and mixed) light temperatures has ended that as a crutch. And the web's cheap access to color photography for publication has meant that B&W is a style, not a comfort zone.

There are people who spend entire lives (and careers) here. Which is fine, I guess, if you disregard the potential of what you could be doing.


2. Competent On-Camera Flash
3. Overdone Off-Camera Flash
4. Experimentation
5. The Bag of Tricks
6. Personal and Unique Lighting Style
7. Subject-Driven Light"

I share this not to call you or anyone out, but because I was stuck in stage 1for a long time, and I'm thinking how much further could I be in my lighting journey if someone would have shared strobist and this list with me sooner. Currently, I'm in stage 4.