Not to pick a fight, but how do you DSLR guys focus without a Live View?

[SynterX]

I'm being serious here. With my XTi, having to rely purely on a small, darkish viewfinder to get razor sharp focusing was very difficult to me. It was guesswork much of the time. It looked perfectly focused, but the shot when shown enlarged slightly clearly could have been better.

This all changed when I started learning the Live View on the 40D. Being able to increase magnification by 5 times or 10 times (which I've had no use for yet, only 5), manually focus so things are razor sharp, back out to normal size, and snap - and I am getting the sharpest pictures ever out of the kit lens and 50mm f1.8. It's absolutely brilliant.

So, I'm asking now if you don't have Live View, how do you assure sharp focusing? Is there a trick to it?

[24Peter]

Well it depends on what kind of shooting you're doing. Shooting macros or in low light off a tripod with LiveView for manual focusing is a godsend. But if you're not on a tripod, I think LiveView is of limited value. I hardly ever use it. Rely on AF almost exclusively.

[GaryS]

I almost never MF... Sometimes for a macro where AF isn't doing what I want, but otherwise its always AF.

[koti]

I'm being serious here. With my XTi, having to rely purely on a small, darkish viewfinder to get razor sharp focusing was very difficult to me. It was guesswork much of the time. It looked perfectly focused, but the shot when shown enlarged slightly clearly could have been better.

This all changed when I started learning the Live View on the 40D. Being able to increase magnification by 5 times or 10 times (which I've had no use for yet, only 5), manually focus so things are razor sharp, back out to normal size, and snap - and I am getting the sharpest pictures ever out of the kit lens and 50mm f1.8. It's absolutely brilliant.

So, I'm asking now if you don't have Live View, how do you assure sharp focusing? Is there a trick to it?

Im jumping into the DSLR route just now myself with the 40D, and frankly the 2 main reasons Im doing it is because the 40D has the live view option now + great high ISO. Well ofcourse other reasons too but Im looking forward to live view very much myself :)

[SynterX]

I guess that's part of my issues. I don't like what AF is doing. The little red light lights in all the wrong places. It's close, but not right. I have to figure out how to change it, and what the different AF modes do, I know. But I am starting to like manual focus more and more, it's fun to see how it all works.

I do need to get a dedicated macro lens though, I'm finding that end of the spectrum to be quite nice.

[GaryS]

You can control which AF point(s) are active, I don't like the auto mode either.

On the XTi, you push a button, and then the dial lets you choose the point you want. I'm sure the 40D is the same.

I have mine set to the centre point only, most of the time. I only pick another point when my intended composition requires a different point.

[Rhys]

I have AF set for centre-point only unless I choose another point (which I do occasionally). Af for the crappy viewfinder, that's why I also have a 30D. The best would be a 5D or a 1D though.

[24Peter]

I guess that's part of my issues. I don't like what AF is doing. The little red light lights in all the wrong places. It's close, but not right. I have to figure out how to change it, and what the different AF modes do, I know. But I am starting to like manual focus more and more, it's fun to see how it all works.

I do need to get a dedicated macro lens though, I'm finding that end of the spectrum to be quite nice.

Well to be honest, I would have trashed my DSLR's a long time ago if I didn't know how to control the focus point selection. I'm not sure which camera you have, but it's similar on most Canon's. First, get out of auto-mode, meaning select either P, Tv, Av or M on the big dial on top of the camera (for your purpose, probably select "P"). Then go to the back of the camera and find the little button in the upper right hand corner (to the right of the "*" button). It has a little box with five points in it (this is also the button that magnifies the image during review). Now look thru the viewfinder while you press the button and the red focus points should light up. Now use the scroll wheel on the top near the shutter release button to select which focus point you want to use. Your camera will still auto focus - except it will only use the point you selected. (Start with the center point.)

As great as LiveView may be, I think you'll find this (selecting one focus point and using AF) a much better experience for most shooting.

[TheObiJuan]

As great as LiveView may be, I think you'll find this (selecting one focus point and using AF) a much better experience for most shooting.

True true.


The 40D is a dream to adjust focus with. Just roll the wheel and cycle through the different points. After some practice you should become fairly proficient and rolling it forward or back to lock the focus point in within milliseconds.

[erichlund]

I first had a D70, and after that was stolen, I got a D200. Night and Day. D70 was mostly AF only. The viewfinder on the D200 is so much bigger and brighter that manual focus is not difficult at all. Those with the D300 have it even better. Full frame digital cameras are even easier. It's almost hard to get it wrong.

Of course, I still miss the split prism I had on my old Canon A-1. Of course, that was only useful with bright lenses, but when it worked, there was no guessing. Of course as a full frame (film) camera, the viewfinder was huge and really bright.

[SynterX]

thank you, that might be what I need. For blurring backgrounds out, I like doing manual focus, but if AF works right, what the heck.

And a big "thanks" to everyone here for the help. I have posted a bunch of questions lately, and don't want to annoy anyone with basic stuff.

jv

[njoy_az]

With the 30D one can also use the joystick to select the focus points (instead of the wheel). A center-push toggles between all and the central focus point. :)

[24Peter]

And a big "thanks" to everyone here for the help. I have posted a bunch of questions lately, and don't want to annoy anyone with basic stuff.

jv

Well kinda goes without saying, but the owners manual is your friend: I always read the users guide cover-to-cover more than once and often before I even buy a new still camera or videocamera (you can download users manuals on-line in anticipation of your new purchase.)

[Vich]

thank you, that might be what I need. For blurring backgrounds out, I like doing manual focus, but if AF works right, what the heck.

And a big "thanks" to everyone here for the help. I have posted a bunch of questions lately, and don't want to annoy anyone with basic stuff.

jv
I'm anxious to (one day) get a live view for those rare MF situations. Either that or install a focus screen (the little lines that meet when the image is in focus). AF does fail sometimes - although there's almost no way to beat the speed of a good USM AF, even with a focus screen and plenty of practice.

One thing about AF - the center dot does have more sensors so for low-light situations you may need to revert to it. Also; use high contrast areas as much as possible, but obviously not the edge of something. Eye slits are ideal.

Be aware, exposure sensing DOES NOT use the selected dot. It uses the center. Usually not an issue except when using spot-metering or your shot has high contrast (like sunset shots of people) but something to be aware of. I nearly always use spot-metering in Manual mode so have gotten used to it, but I went for a few shoots thinking my selected focus spot was taking the exposure - woops.

[jayfixit]

Here's a thread I started on manual focus and the XTi using some old Nikkor lenses:

http://dcresource.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34079

[SynterX]

I did read the manual, but honestly, after reading it, I missed much of the good stuff. I just can't retain an entire manual at once...I try. I'm 40 in a few months, and am finding my learning is requiring some more patience!

I will re-read again after a few weeks when I can comprehend more.

[michaelb]

True true.


The 40D is a dream to adjust focus with. Just roll the wheel and cycle through the different points. After some practice you should become fairly proficient and rolling it forward or back to lock the focus point in within milliseconds.

I find it even easier to use the multicontroller "joystick" to select AF points with the 40D. It goes right the AF point I want. So much easier and faster than selecting AF points than with my old XT.

I don't use MF very often and I've yet to use liveview on my 40D; I just like to use the VF. The viewfinder is much bigger on the 40D compared to the XT - much easier to use.

[njoy_az]

I find it even easier to use the multicontroller "joystick" to select AF points with the 40D. It goes right the AF point I want. So much easier and faster than selecting AF points than with my old XT.
...


I second that. I find the multicontroller / joystick much easier to use for that purpose.

[Mark_48]

There's a trick some wedding photographers use for manual focusing in low light, they use a laser pointer as a focus aid. Alot easier to focus on a bright dot than something of low contrast. Some pointers even have designs such as stars to make it seen even better. Just don't use this technique on low flying aircraft or at a persons eyes:eek:.

Mark......

[michaelb]

There's a trick some wedding photographers use for manual focusing in low light, they use a laser pointer as a focus aid. Alot easier to focus on a bright dot than something of low contrast. Some pointers even have designs such as stars to make it seen even better. Just don't use this technique on low flying aircraft or at a persons eyes:eek:.

Mark......

That's interesting; never heard that one before - interesting idea.

[cdifoto]

There's a trick some wedding photographers use for manual focusing in low light, they use a laser pointer as a focus aid. Alot easier to focus on a bright dot than something of low contrast. Some pointers even have designs such as stars to make it seen even better. Just don't use this technique on low flying aircraft or at a persons eyes:eek:.

Mark......

Or even easier still---they'll utilize the AF-assist beam on a Speedlite so they don't have to manually focus. :D

[koti]

I think this "trick" is as old as laser pointers themselves :)
I remember 12 years ago my buddy bought a 0,5 Mpixel Sony Mavica and we used a laser pointer all the time to get it to focus right :)

Ofcourse, if You want ultra-sharp focusing on any camera You'd have to use my handheld, Lithium Cell powered, 350mw+ green laser "pointer" that burns thru stuff from 4 meters away :p
http://www.djkoti.pl/stuff/RPL__P1080598.JPG_595.jpg

Then again...You would have to use a realy fast lens when the people start running away with burns on their butts, lol!