Help!

[blusky]

Hi this is my first post...be gentle....
I shot my brothers wedding with his p&s Sony cybershot and the pixs were great. Now my youngest brother is getting married and wants me to shoot his wedding also... so my hubby bought me a Nikon D80 with a Sigma 28-70mm and Nikon 70-300 lenses.(wasn't that nice!)
I have had it for about a month and with the Sigma 28-70mm 1:2.8-4 DG D lens I am having the hardest time getting crisp clear images from it. I have a steady hand and have taken 1,000 of pixs. I am however new to digital SLR's and have played with manual settings some on this one. I am having the problem in fully auto default mode! What is going on? Is it the Sigma lens? is it the camera? I have been taking pictures for many years. Another thing I need help with is I can't seem to get it to focus the whole picture. There will be a small area in the middle that is focused and the further you get to the edge the blurrier it gets. I set it to f11 and higher but then my shutter speed is so slow?:confused: I am hoping some of you can gently help me out. I know it probably is a stupidity thing on my part, but am getting nervous as I need to do this wedding in a month and have to figure something out or get a different camera to use......................any help? any at all??

[fionndruinne]

Yes, a large-aperture lens like a f/2.8 will have a very narrow depth-of-field when you're shooting at maximum aperture, so only a small portion of the image will be in focus. Do you change your focus points? Obviously you don't always want what's in the center to be in best focus, but you should be able to use the directional pad to change your focus points manually (in AF-manual mode - which isn't manual focus mode, that's another thing).

What ISO speed are you using? You'll likely have to crank it up to get blur-free shots with the Sigma in low light, if you stop it down past the larger apertures.

[TheObiJuan]

Shooting at f/11 will make blurry pics indoors since the shutter speed drops significantly.

Shoot at f/2.8-f/4 and up the ISO to at least 400.

[Rooz]

I have had it for about a month and with the Sigma 28-70mm 1:2.8-4 DG D lens I am having the hardest time getting crisp clear images from it. I have a steady hand and have taken 1,000 of pixs. I am however new to digital SLR's and have played with manual settings some on this one. I am having the problem in fully auto default mode! What is going on? Is it the Sigma lens? is it the camera? I have been taking pictures for many years. Another thing I need help with is I can't seem to get it to focus the whole picture. There will be a small area in the middle that is focused and the further you get to the edge the blurrier it gets. I set it to f11 and higher but then my shutter speed is so slow?:confused: I am hoping some of you can gently help me out. I know it probably is a stupidity thing on my part, but am getting nervous as I need to do this wedding in a month and have to figure something out or get a different camera to use......................any help? any at all??

the sigma is not a bad lens so the piucs should be better than what you say. maybe better for you to post some images so we can have a better look, but a couple of things straight off the bat...

sharp pics:
the d80 by default takes soft pics cos the in-cam sharpnening is set to very low in the camera. in fact almost all dslr's will be LESS sharp straight out of cam than P&S cameras. easiest way is to turn the sharpness right up. a btter way is to do it post processing.

small area in focus:
this is called the "depth of field" which determines how much of your frame is in focus and how much is blurred. the larger the aperture, (the smaller the f number), the LESS of the frame is in focus. at f11 though you have quite a significant DOF so alot more should be in focus than just the centre.

remember also that with a P&S the sensor size is so small that a small aperture of even f4 is really the equivalent of a much smaller aperture in dslr so heaps more of the frame will always be on focus with P&S than dslr. this is the advatage of dslr is that you can isolate your subject fromn the background much better.

slow shutter speed at f11:
ok, i suppose you would know that a correct expsoure is the combination of aperture, shutter speed and iso value. so as your aperture gets smaller it has to reduce the shutter speed to allow light through for a longer amount of time to get your correct exposure. the only way to solve this is to up the iso to compensate or better still, get a hotshoe flash gun.

f11 is actually quite a small aperture to be using and you will need alot of light for that. i can;t recall ever using f11 indoors put it that way. f5.6-f8 is a better option if you want alot of the frame in focus for group shots, use an even larger aperture for portraits. either way though, indoors you will need to increase your iso, use a larger aperture, (which gets less of your frame in focus), or use a flash. there;s no other way around it unfortunately.

[blusky]

Yes, a large-aperture lens like a f/2.8 will have a very narrow depth-of-field when you're shooting at maximum aperture, so only a small portion of the image will be in focus. Do you change your focus points? Obviously you don't always want what's in the center to be in best focus, but you should be able to use the directional pad to change your focus points manually (in AF-manual mode - which isn't manual focus mode, that's another thing).

What ISO speed are you using? You'll likely have to crank it up to get blur-free shots with the Sigma in low light, if you stop it down past the larger apertures.

I was aware of the directional pad for changing focal points, but that seems like a lot of time will be lost if I have to do that for evey shot I want to take?

I had the ISO on auto as well.

Thank you kindly for replying.

[blusky]

Shooting at f/11 will make blurry pics indoors since the shutter speed drops significantly.


Shoot at f/2.8-f/4 and up the ISO to at least 400.

Yes, This is what I found out. The shutter speed was MUCH slower.
I didn't try upping the ISO though.
Thanks for hte input I appreciate it. I am just starting to realize how HUGE the knowledge a camera buff has to have to get great pictures. You guys are mt heros! I only hope someday I know as much about cameras as you all.

[blusky]

the sigma is not a bad lens so the piucs should be better than what you say. maybe better for you to post some images so we can have a better look, but a couple of things straight off the bat...

sharp pics:
the d80 by default takes soft pics cos the in-cam sharpnening is set to very low in the camera. in fact almost all dslr's will be LESS sharp straight out of cam than P&S cameras. easiest way is to turn the sharpness right up. a btter way is to do it post processing.

small area in focus:
this is called the "depth of field" which determines how much of your frame is in focus and how much is blurred. the larger the aperture, (the smaller the f number), the LESS of the frame is in focus. at f11 though you have quite a significant DOF so alot more should be in focus than just the centre.

remember also that with a P&S the sensor size is so small that a small aperture of even f4 is really the equivalent of a much smaller aperture in dslr so heaps more of the frame will always be on focus with P&S than dslr. this is the advatage of dslr is that you can isolate your subject fromn the background much better.

slow shutter speed at f11:
ok, i suppose you would know that a correct expsoure is the combination of aperture, shutter speed and iso value. so as your aperture gets smaller it has to reduce the shutter speed to allow light through for a longer amount of time to get your correct exposure. the only way to solve this is to up the iso to compensate or better still, get a hotshoe flash gun.

f11 is actually quite a small aperture to be using and you will need alot of light for that. i can;t recall ever using f11 indoors put it that way. f5.6-f8 is a better option if you want alot of the frame in focus for group shots, use an even larger aperture for portraits. either way though, indoors you will need to increase your iso, use a larger aperture, (which gets less of your frame in focus), or use a flash. there;s no other way around it unfortunately.



I will try to post some pixs.

I turned up the sharpness onthe camera. I hope this helps too.

Iam planningon getting a hotshoe before the wedding SB600 was in my sites??

Is there any setting that I can just putit at and shoot the wedding as I'm afraid it will take me too long to adjust settings every picture and am afraid I will miss an important shot while fiddling with my settings :o(

[GaryS]

I felt the same way 18 months ago blusky. You can use a Point & Shoot camera, and get pics that are ok. Then you move to a better camera like an SLR, and you think that your pictures are going to be better.... Then you find that there is a learning curve before you can even get pics as good as a P&S.

But, in the longer run, you will get photos with your SLR that are better than anything you could do before.... You just need to keep at it.

Quick story. I was at a relative's house for Canadian Thanksgiving, and I had my camera and tripod there in the car. Since all the adult and kids relations were present, someone suggests "Hey, Gary takes great photos. Lets have hime take a family portrait of everyone!"

I'm standing there thinking "I don't know how to take pictures of people.... I can only take pictures of things that stay still, and even then only if I get 2 or 3 tires at it."

Its dark in their house at the best of times, there are 17 people (including me) and everyone is looking to me for a great pose idea....

The moral of this story??? I don't know, just to keep working at it. I learned a few things from this mini-shoot, so I will be more prepared next time it comes up. Someday I will nail it!

[blusky]

I guess before I can post pictures I should ask how do I do go about that?

[TheWengler]

I guess before I can post pictures I should ask how do I do go about that?

You can host them somewhere then embed them in your post or you can just attach them to your post using the paper clip in the tool bar. The attachment symbol is in the top row about 3/4 of the way over to the right.

[fionndruinne]

I was aware of the directional pad for changing focal points, but that seems like a lot of time will be lost if I have to do that for evey shot I want to take?

Not once you get used to it. Framing a shot takes a little thought, usually, and personally I find picking the focus point helps me to think about composition. Actually switching the points, though, that can be done as fast as your finger can hit the directional pad.

Not everyone's cup of tea, but I find it invaluable myself.

[blusky]

I'm going to try to get some of the pictures on here and hopefully you all can all give me advise on making them better.This was my cousins wedding(the first with my D80 and I was quite dissapointed with the lack of clarity and don't want this to happen at my brothers wedding too. I took over 600 pictures for them and was a one woman show so I definately encourage a helper when doing large group photo shoots.......

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[blusky]

I think I have it figured out...


29852

[blusky]

I know these are large, but hoping you can see the "fuzzyness" of them


29853

[blusky]

more to come...

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[blusky]

I'm not sure why I have to have text in the post before it will put my picture here. I'm running out of things to say....


29855

[blusky]

These can all be deleated from my post when it gets old, if they take up too much room....

29856

[blusky]

I cried gallons over these pictures when I saw them zoomed in...sigh

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[blusky]

a few more.....

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[blusky]

and another..........


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[blusky]

Do you see my great dissapointment. these had potential of being great pictures..siiigh...sniff.. sniff:(


.29860

[blusky]

and another

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[blusky]

one more after this one..
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[blusky]

Last one. Sorry for going overboard. when you have 600 images to pick from...well, it's hard to know what to pick. Most of these were taken in the full auto mode and a lot were with a tripod! Like the bouquets onthe pew I used manual focus for that one.

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[TheObiJuan]

Either camera shake or misfocus.
If you were shooting wide open that would also add softness.

Do you know what shutter speed you were shooting at?

[blusky]

I sure wouldn't have pegged it camera shake because even the tri-pod shots are this way. I do not know what shutter speed as I just had it on auto
being the first time shooting (other than palying around)this wedding was a last minut rush and they couldn't get a pro in time nor had the funds for one.

[TheObiJuan]

With slow shutter speeds the camera shake could still be an issue on a tripod if you are not using mirror lockup and/or manually pushing the shutter.

It's best to use a remote to avoid mashing the shutter and moving the camera.

[achuang]

It looks like a very soft lens to me, not even misfocus. Because in some of the shots nothing is really in sharp focus. Although some of the shots are sharp, like the group photos. So it might be a case of both a very soft lens with focusing issues. I think you did a good job considering it was with new equipment that you weren't fully familiar with. And to me it doesn't look like user error is fully to blame, the lens might be an issue.

[blusky]

I guess I was just really dissapointed being I did have it in full auto mode and there was still the VERY soft or"out of focus" look on the pixs.
I have shot some pixs with myNikon 70-300mm off hand and they were crisp. I will try to upload some of those soon so you can see the difference.

[TheObiJuan]

Rereading your first post I believe your lens is soft.
Replace it and problem will be solved.

[achuang]

Rereading your first post I believe your lens is soft.
Replace it and problem will be solved.

I agree with obijuan here, considering your pics are sharp with the 70-300 then it is definitely the lens. There are some affordable but sharp lenses out there. Just ask the members and they'll give plenty of suggestions for good lenses.

[Rooz]

i agree with obi aswell. looking at the exif there is no way thats camera shake and in alot of the photos nothing seems to be in focus so its not misfocussing either. looks to be a lens problem.

unfortunately you're gonna have to have the lens replaced.

[Honest Gaza]

That's a real shame Blusky....some nice subjects there in the photos :(.

Rather than post shots that you took with the larger lens (which won't really give us a definitive indication of how the Sigma lens works), please post some "outdoor" shots taken with the same Sigma lens.

If these are also blurry...then it certainly indicates a possible fault with the lens.

[blusky]

This was one of those....my brother drops in unnanounced and says "hay sis we need to get an engagement picture in the paper, can you get us one"? so I drop what I'm doing, grab my camera and we head out to the front yard and I plop them on a small round bale. With camera in fully auto snap this shot. They think it's great. I burn it to a disk for them a and they are on their way.
I'm sitting there looking at it disgusted because it looks "fuzzy" to me . It was bout 3:00, day was partly cloudy but still great light compared to indoors. everything was still in full auto and I hadn't turned up the sharpness inthe camera as suggested here. When I look at their eyes and face it lacks that crispness I love in a photo. I was standing about 6 feet fromthem and lens was not zoomed in at all.

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[blusky]

here is the second of the three shots I took.
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[blusky]

When I zoom in on the computer all three have the same problem of lack of clarity:(
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[TheObiJuan]

Yep, it's the lens...unless you have a cheap filter on the lens that is causing the blurring.
Replace the lens if not filter is being used.

[blusky]

No filter. new and a very clean lens. So I will be getting a new lens.......now to figure out what to replace it with???

[TheObiJuan]

Depends on your needs.
Look at some of the regular images you take and look at the focal length you use most.
Many people push the wide zoom lenses with 17mm or 18mm lengths.
I can see why people see this as necessary, but I prefer with the 1.6x a 24mm lens at the widest.
I'm a sucker for telephoto.

[Rooz]

When I zoom in on the computer all three have the same problem of lack of clarity:(

there are a couple of issues with this photo though.

the exif is:
auto mode
70mm
iso 500
1/200s
matrix metering
f9

auto mode has screwed your exposure really, i recommend against it every time. use Ap for portrait style photos. also, its shot fully extended at 70mm where the lens is at it's softest. iso 500 has led to hi iso NR being switched on so you lose more sharpness there as the camera tries to reduce the noise. its also at f9 which is not at the sharpest point, and really not that condusive to the style of shot.

the colour is also washed out a little due to incorrect WB and the matrix meter trying to meter the whole scene rather than the main subject. so there are a few things working against you in that shot. notice there is really no pure black point in the shot.

really the exposure should probably have been using aperture priority, iso 200, f5.6, 1/60s, spot metering and shot at say 50mm for best sharpness.

not suggesting your lens is still not a poor copy, cos the other photos tend to suggest it probably is, but this photo is an example where you didn;t do the lens any favours.

a quick NX adjustment for WB and sharpness and a crop of the blown out sky gives you a much better version and would be even more effective using the full sized image. that photo is definitely a keeper with a little work. the greenish color cast still looks a bit off in their face which if shot in raw, (or a bit of fiddling in jpeg), you could fix easily.

the other 2 shots have similar exposure and metering issues.

[Rooz]

same sort of thing with these ones. lack of contrast, shot at 70mm again and i would guess there is a higher iso than needed in there aswell, (with NR again softening thne image).

this is oversharpened again, much more USM than i would be comfortable with normally, but you should get the "picture" of what i mean by this. black and white colour control points and crop.

i think alot of your photos can be saved in PP if you still have the originals. RAW would be ideal.

[blusky]

Can I ask what you did to the picture that you pasted in your reply? The color seems very saturated. I am located in ND and it is the middle of October so we are definately not that green and their skin looks like they are from so.Cal..lol. the three pix I posted was the color of the sky(this time of year we don't have blue skies They are white/grey :( ) the three pixs I posted are the actual shades of their skin...............

I know I left everything up to the camera and I know it is capable of so much more than I know now. It's like my brain goes blank when in a hurry and shooting for someone else..........
I am working on getting to know the settings and what setting to use when. It sure is a lot to learn and remember and then getting fluent at it........

[Rooz]

its a levels and curves adjustment. you can adjust it to whatever level of saturation you like quite easily. as i mentioned, everything in the photos is "overdone" to give you the idea of what can be achieved in post processing.

i would recommend that you use the following settings for your next shoot if you are going to be doing mostly portrait style.

aperture priority, let the cam adjust your shutter for you.

f5.6-f8, adjust to f8 only if you really need the additional depth of field.
try avoiding the lens fully extended to 70mm cos it seems to be at its softest there, (unless you get a new lens then you don;t need to worry about that.). you can always crop back later to get your subjects closer.

turn auto iso ON
set max iso to iso 400
set min shutter to 1/40s, (assuming your hands are quite steady as you said, or 1/60s if you are in any way concerned about shake).
set WB to auto but try to shoot raw if you can to adjut later if needed
try to use centre weighted metering outdoors in varying light, indoors in constant light, matrix metering should work fine.

the d80 tends to overexpose a little so set your cam to -0.3EV.

the sigma lns you have seems to significantly lack contrast, so try upping the contrast a little or better yet, again, shoot raw and adjust later.

[Bynx]

I hope its not my monitor but I think the colors here are a bit more natural. What do you think blusky?

[blusky]

Yes, I was wondering the same thing. The pix.rooz put on was was more vibrant than what it was like in real life.The colors seem so intense. I know monitors vary a bit...... The pixs I originally posted were very close to what my eye saw in real life.

[Bynx]

Your pics are very soft focus. This is usually done for older people to help reduce age lines and skin imperfections. With the two pics Ive posted of yours you can see the details in both the black bands of the sweater and the cloth texture of the girls shirt. Your camera has captured the information. It just doesnt seem to be producing it properly.

[Rooz]

Yes, I was wondering the same thing. The pix.rooz put on was was more vibrant than what it was like in real life.The colors seem so intense. I know monitors vary a bit...... The pixs I originally posted were very close to what my eye saw in real life.

i tend to find that customers don't really give a toss about what you see in real life. if you can get a bluer sky, a nicer skin tone, a greener field, they are normally far happier.

[TheWengler]

i tend to find that customers don't really give a toss about what you see in real life. if you can get a bluer sky, a nicer skin tone, a greener field, they are normally far happier.

I think you're right. If my gf happens to have a bright red face when I take her picture she doesn't want to be bright red in the picture. I guess it might depend on the situation though.

[blusky]

i tend to find that customers don't really give a toss about what you see in real life. if you can get a bluer sky, a nicer skin tone, a greener field, they are normally far happier.

Yes, I see your point, it's just that is was SO drastic from the original and the skin shades way more "tanned" looking than real life....Kinda took me by surprise.