Setting custom white balance

[Burrhead Photo]

I have read before that to set a custom white balance, or maybe to correctly set the white balance, that you need an 18% gray card.

What exactly is this? And how do you use it?

I have a couple Nikon D70's (not the S) that I would like to try this on. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Dan

[TheObiJuan]

Not to sure how to do it on the Nikon, but with Canon you shoot a white card or 18% spot/card/disc that is easily purchased online and then use it for the custom white balance.
There is a mode for custom white balance that then has you choose the picture that you took for setting the WB and from there all pics are set-- unless the lighting changes-- then it's time to reset.

[michaelb]

My advice - whenever I shoot in a "challenging" lighting situation I shoot in RAW, that way I can adjust the WB in PP in DPP.

[Burrhead Photo]

My advice - whenever I shoot in a "challenging" lighting situation I shoot in RAW, that way I can adjust the WB in PP in DPP.


That is exactly what I do now. I was just curious how to save a step or two.

[DonSchap]

I suggest using an "expodisc" by Expo Imaging, which you place over your lens ... point at your incident lighting ... go to custom WB and click. Instant correct WB. Take it off and commence fire!

Check it out at: www.expodisc.com

Good luck :D

[erichlund]

The procedure is in your camera manual. Basically, you set your white balance to preset WB. Then, you take a picture of a fully covered frame of your gray card or white card (gray is supposed to be more accurate, but only because white paper is not really white, and usually has a color cast). Then you shoot with that preset WB until your light conditions change. There are many other methods. For instance, since a photo frame costs nothing, you can just take a picture with your grey card in it, and use that in post processing for white balance.

[Norm in Fujino]

I suggest using an "expodisc" by Expo Imaging, which you place over your lens ... point at your subject ...

Actually, when taking an incident light or w/b measurement--with expodisc for wb or ordinary light meter with hemispheric globe for exposure--you should point the lightmeter (or camera w/ expodisc) toward the
light source, not toward the subject. In other words, stand in the subject's position and point the camera or light meter back toward the light source or taking position. When using a white card for reflected light (or wb) measurement, you do the opposite; place the white card in the subject position and allow the light source to reflect off of it, and meter off the reflected light.

[erichlund]

I missed that. Good catch.

I have an expoDisc, a whibal card set, and a kodak gray card. While I do occasionally use one or the other, I have to admit, I usually just do what I need to do in post processing to get the right look. Not very accurate, but then the "right look" is all I really need most of the time.

The expoDisc can be a little intimidating if you take the time to actually read the directions. They talk about multiple light sources and aiming between them to get the right balance of light. Of course, the first thought that brings up is, "Do I point closer to the stronger light source?", which of course makes sense, but then how big a diff does it make? Yikes. Of course, the real answer is just get it sort of close.

The whibal is much easier. Have the subject hold the card and adjust it until there's no glare on the sticker (assuming human subject), then take a photo. Use the whibal in that photo as your grey point reference in post processing. Or take a preset off the whibal. In this case, you want the glare off the sticker, but you don't want the sticker in the frame. Either way, works great.

Gray card is another one of those sorta solutions. It's best to point the gray card at the general position of the light source(s), and take the reference from the direction you will be shooting from. This gives the best reflection of the actual light. However, I believe (from feel of the card) that the Kodak gray card's paint is of the type that diffuses the light hitting the card, so the actual angles are not all that critical. In case you think they don't make paint that way, back in the 80's, when I was flying USAF C-141 Starlifters, they changed the paint from cammo greens to this sort of ugly flat gray. It also had technology in the paint to diffuse light in order to make the aircraft harder to see. Not anything quite as sophisticated as the paint used on the "stealth" aircraft, but there you have it, nothing new.

[DonSchap]

Thank you, Norm.

Good catch!

I editted and made the correction in my initial suggestion. :)