Light meter

[viewfinder]

Based on suggestions from other people in this forum, I've bought the Bryan Peterson book, Understanding Exposure Revised Edition.
I've only read the first 22 pages so far and although I understand for the most part what he's explaining, there is one thing I'm not sure of.
He mentions on page 22 about The Light Meter that "it reacted and directed you to adjust the shutter speed, and then it indicated in the viewfinder that you had reached the correct shutter speed"
I'm sure this quote is of no use to anyone that does not have this book but, he was explaining what happens when you use different ISO settings and F stops to get a correct exposure on the same subject.
My question is, what am I suppose to be looking for in the viewfinder that indicates the correct shutter speed and F stop?
I was in the M mode when trying his experiment and other than adjusting the shutter speed and f stop to make the image I was taking the picture of, look like I thought it should, nothing in the viewfinder indicated that I had things correct or incorrect.
Is there another function of this camera I should be using to see this information?

I'm using a Canon S3 IS.
Sorry about the long explanation.

[Graystar]

The reference is to the light meter in the viewfinder of Single Lens Reflex (SLR) cameras (both film and digital.)

When you adjust any camera setting that affects exposure, the light meter in the viewfinder will instantly indicate accordingly. So if the meter is indicating proper exposure, and the aperture is opened further, the meter will now indicate over-exposure. So shutter speed is reduced and the meter once again indicates proper exposure.

Your S3 does not work this way.

The S3 electronic viewfinder gives the same view as the LCD, along with the same exposure indicators. The camera only performs a meter reading when the shutter is pressed halfway. So you just have to adjust your process slightly. You have to make your adjustment and then press the shutter halfway to see the results. Also, get out your S3 manual and read up on the exposure indicators so that you know what you’re looking at. You’ll then be able to translate what the book is telling you into what you’re seeing.

[viewfinder]

The reference is to the light meter in the viewfinder of Single Lens Reflex (SLR) cameras (both film and digital.)

When you adjust any camera setting that affects exposure, the light meter in the viewfinder will instantly indicate accordingly. So if the meter is indicating proper exposure, and the aperture is opened further, the meter will now indicate over-exposure. So shutter speed is reduced and the meter once again indicates proper exposure.

Your S3 does not work this way.

The S3 electronic viewfinder gives the same view as the LCD, along with the same exposure indicators. The camera only performs a meter reading when the shutter is pressed halfway. So you just have to adjust your process slightly. You have to make your adjustment and then press the shutter halfway to see the results. Also, get out your S3 manual and read up on the exposure indicators so that you know what you’re looking at. You’ll then be able to translate what the book is telling you into what you’re seeing.

Thank you for the explanation. Especially the part about my camera not having the light meter in the view finder.
After playing around with the shutter speeds and f stops, I realized what I had to do to get a correct exposure and your explanation confirms that. I now know what to look for and how to do it.
I think.
The manual can be helpfull but, doesn't really go into detail on how to do certain things. At least for me as I'm just starting to experiment with photography.

[GravyTrain]

this thread is very timely for me because i also have just begun reading the same book. i had the same question so this is very helpful. i have a related follow up question: which setting is the best to get light metering? i've had some trouble with certain parts of the image being overexposed. should i use spot metering? or maybe center-weighted average?

[Graystar]

There isn’t any one best metering mode. That’s why you have several.

If all the objects in your scene have equal value, then use evaluative. For example, consider a landscape with a lake, mountain, and clouds. All the objects contribute equally to the image so you’d want them all exposed as best as possible.

If you have a complex scene, but only the middle matters, then use center-weighted. For example, consider a bee collecting pollen from a flower. You want the bee and the pistils properly exposed, and if the little bit of sky you caught on the top edge is blown...no big deal.

If your scene has a single object that IS the scene, then use spot metering. An example would be shots of the moon. Also use spot metering to take readings from different areas of a scene. This is the type of thing you’d do when using Zone metering techniques.

Different situation may also call for different metering. For example, if you find yourself with a high contrast scene (bright sun with shadows) then you will need to decrease your metering area (by going to center weighted or spot) in order to insure the subject is properly exposed.

Use of the live histogram is also important in trying to keep parts of your scene from being over or under exposed. However, remember that sometimes parts of your scene need to be over or under exposed in order to get the subject right.

A little more on metering modes:
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/camera-metering.htm

Bookmark this page...you’ll be referring to it all the time.
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials.htm

Look here for an explanation of zone metering.
http://www.normankoren.com/zonesystem.html

[GravyTrain]

thanks for the reply...and the links. that's very helpful. i just got this camera a couple weeks ago and i'm on a steep learning curve. this is my first digital camera and the first camera where i could make any type of settings at all. so it's quite overwhelming. i think i've been bit by the shutterbug :)