Questions About S3 IS settings and editing

[kat_loves_photography]

Weeeellll i bought my S3 is.
but i don't seem to be able to get pictures as nice as all those S3 ones i'm finding on flickr! lol:cool:
i just wanted to see if anyone had tips on getting better pictures.

do most of you here edit your pictures? when i upload my pictures i just use the auto adjust on the canon software, but a few times i've used the manual sharpness, brightness, and saturation settings. mostly i like the look when i put the saturation highest but can an image be oversaturated? how can you tell? is it better to just trust the auto adjust?

i was also wondering if any of you take pictures of horses, the other day i took my S3 to the barn where i ride and i wanted to take pictures of some friends on horseback, jumping and such. They looked nice on the LCD, but i wasn't too happy when i uploaded them, even after some editing. I'm thinking there should be certain settings for action shots, other than sport mode. Did anyone try sport mode? Is it any good? Should i use aperture speed priority mode? if so what speed? what ISO?

because it seems everyone elses pictures with this camera are so much better...so maybe im doing something wrong?:eek:

help.:confused:

[mes444]

Check the thread in the link, and be sure to check the first entry in this forum, "S2 tips and tricks", it includes info on S3 (as most things are the same) and is excellent.

I mentioned it in my post here, as well as some starter settings I found useful.

http://www.dcresource.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32951

[kat_loves_photography]

sounds good. theres some really good tips.
but not quuuiittee what i need.
helpful none the less.

im just wondering though, for action pics would it be better to use the sport mode or 'P' mode with your own settings?
for action pics, shutter speed is more important that aperture right? so i could use shutter-speed priority mode?
:confused::confused::confused:

and what do you guys do for editing? do you edit at all?

[David Metsky]

For sports I put the camera in P, set ISO as low as I can, adjust the White Balance, and put it in burst mode. Then I take dozens of shots, sometimes hundreds. Usually there are a few good ones in there. You can also use Av mode and set the shutter speed to something fast, like 1/250 and adjust the ISO to make sure there is enough light.

Can you post some photos so we can see what you are seeing?

I post process with PhotoShop, usually doing some color correction and sharpening.

[NoobS3]

I find myself using Tv alot, when I'm shootin a subject that is moving.

[David Metsky]

Sorry, I meant Tv, not Av. :eek:

[JTL]

...and what do you guys do for editing? do you edit at all?If by editing you mean shooting a lot images and discarding the non-keepers as you go ("chimping") then yeah...that's why everyone loves digital! ;)

If by editing you mean post-processing using software such as PhotoShop and Paint Shop Pro...some do, some don't. And a lot of people here get excellent results and never post-process (not that there is anything wrong with post-processing...it is the modern equivalent of doing darkroom work). Also, most people who apply post-processing say so in their postings...because its mostly all about the sharing and the learning here...

Why don't you post some pictures so we can see what you're talking about? :)

[Turn]

I agree with JTL, post some photos it would help us understand more.


-Use P mode as a replacement of Auto...gives you more control (but Shutterspeed+Aperture is still camera controlled)
-if you want control over your shutterspeed: Use Tv or Manual (I prefer manual)
-I think someone told me once that you want to match your focal length with your shutterspeed if you want to stop blur happening when zoomed in fully..because I must say when zoomed in fully its quite easy for the subject to blur if shutterspeed is too low.
-Sports mode, night mode etc, they're just for the casual user, P/Tv/Av/M can achieve the same results when configured the right way
-The ISO limit for decent photos for most people is ISO 100 and 200 somewhat but thats probably in very good light..

(I use ISO 200 abit because noise doesn't bother me as much.)

the great thing about the S3 IS is that when zoomed in all the way the aperture is 3.5 minimum which is far better than 5.6 which I've seen a few times on other cameras.

[kat_loves_photography]

wow thank you for all your help guys
im sorry i dont have any of my photos on the computer im using ATM, i'll see if i can get some up soon:) i know it would help..

i just discovered that i had my picture quality on the lowest! that probably didnt help much!:p

i also found the sharperning and saturation settings, what have you found are the best results using these?

im a n00b.:eek: what exactly does ISO do?? thats been getting me. how should i adjust it when i adjust other things?

[mes444]

Kat, These are a few things I posted previously that maybe you missed and which answer some of your questions. See the last item about the picture resolution being changed if you accidently hit the shortcut button on the back, maybe that is how you got to the lowest resolution.

A few things you might try and see if you like. P mode is good.

Set ISO to stay at 100 with the ISO button near the LCD screen. ISO is like the old film speed, higher the number the more light it lets in, but the cost is grainy pics. So most people like to keep it low at 100 to avoid the grainy, speckled look digital pics get when you go over 100. If you must take pics in low light, you'll have to raise the ISO, but other than that, lower is better.

Go into the My Colors setting. Use the function button and scroll down three spaces. Do one click left and go to custom setting. Try Sharpness +1 or +2. Try saturation +1 or +2. Some people recommend dropping the contrast to -1 to help stop highlight blowout effect. And there are other settings there you may want to play with later.

Try setting the display to show the grid and the histogram. And when the histogram is showing while you are taking pictures, try to get it to look like a mountain range, not too high on the left or right. Keep the grid straight and try to put your picture subject into one of the sections of the grid where the lines cross.

Be sure your resolution is set to large/superfine. The setting is in the function screen a few things down from the my colors mentioned above.

And check that your shortcut button isn't changing your resolution if you accidently hit it. The shortcut button is set to change the resolution by default. Go into your menu and assign another function to the shortcut button so it doesn't reduce the resolution by accident

[JTL]

Wow! Mes has some great tips! :)

Re-assinginig the shorcut button is brilliant...

And Kat, just remember while it's o.k. to increase the sharpness and saturation as per Mes's instructions above, don't increase the contrast...otherwise you're likely to lose highlight detail (referred to as "blown" highlights) in bright scenes...

[mes444]

JTL, Coming from the dean of tips, I consider your comments a BIG compliament. And I thank you. Some were found in your tips list at the top, others from wandering around the web gathering ideas. And some even from the Canon Advanced Users Guide.

I suggested that decreasing the contrast -1 would help with the highlights, and using that setting my pics seem less blown out. Just wondering if you are in agreement with that aspect. I agree not to increase it, but decreasing seems good.

Thanks again for the good word.

[kat_loves_photography]

in that case what's the difference between ISO and aperture?

[kat_loves_photography]

http://photos-d.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v109/168/14/510870552/n510870552_865979_2412.jpg
http://photos-a.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v109/168/14/510870552/n510870552_865980_2623.jpg
http://photos-d.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v109/168/14/510870552/n510870552_865983_3260.jpg
http://photos-c.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v109/168/14/510870552/n510870552_865990_4762.jpg
http://photos-a.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v109/168/14/510870552/n510870552_865992_5197.jpg

okay, i didnt realize i could post off facebook:p

so there are some samples, it was a really bright day but the colors seem kind of washed out and the quality is just not what i was aiming for.

[David Metsky]

ISO simply pushes up the gain of the CCD. It works just like ISO for film cameras. The lower the number, the more light you need, but the cleaner the image. The higher the number, the less light you need, but the noisier the image.

Aperture cuts down the amount of light but it also changes the depth of focus which can be very important with portraits and other types of shots where you want to blur the background. Because of the way lenses are built all apertures aren't available at all focal lengths.

They do some similar things but with different side effects.

[JTL]

I suggested that decreasing the contrast -1 would help with the highlights, and using that setting my pics seem less blown out. Just wondering if you are in agreement with that aspect. I agree not to increase it, but decreasing seems good.Totally agree...since the lens on the S3 is good and contrasty in its own right. I think backing off/lowering the in-camera contrast is good...I've got mine set to -1, and I still blow out the whites sometimes! :D

[kat_loves_photography]

comments on the shots? can you guys see them?

Aperture cuts down the amount of light but it also changes the depth of focus which can be very important with portraits and other types of shots where you want to blur the background. Because of the way lenses are built all apertures aren't available at all focal lengths.

so when you make the aperture lower or higher what happens to the background? i mean i know it blurs but like in relation to the aperture.:D

and while i'm here i won't make a new topic, but right now i just own the S3 is on its own, what accesories are recommended? is there anything i can buy to protect the lens?

[David Metsky]

Depth of Field is a range of distances that will be in sharp focus. In a portrait, you generally want the person to be in focus but not the background. So, by pushing the f-stop number low (big aperture) you can limit the depth that is in focus. If you are taking a shot with many things that all need to be in focus, you want to push the f-stop number higher (small aperture) so the depth of field is very wide and everything looks sharp and clear.

Some tutorials:
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/depth-of-field.htm
http://www.photoxels.com/tutorial_dof.html
http://www.dpchallenge.com/tutorial.php?TUTORIAL_ID=1

There are several threads already on S3 accessories. You don't need much of anything, but several of us have bought adapter tubes for filters and additional lenses. I've got one from Lensmate (http://www.lensmateonline.com/newsite/S2.html) to allow filters and protect the lens.

-dave-

[kat_loves_photography]

okay thanks!:)

i was also wondering if there any free noise reduction software for download?

[David Metsky]

Not free, but Noise Ninja (http://www.picturecode.com/) is fairly cheap and very popular. Also Neat Image (http://www.neatimage.com/).

[ooverdrive]

I found neat image demo version very useful for removing noise even@iso800.
Just a few clicks and make a neat image.Give it a try

[kat_loves_photography]

thanks for everyones help, you guys are great!

i used the demo of neat image that really helped, except for a quirk where it shuts down whenever i ask for a preview, but i can work around it:)

any comments on the pictures i put up?

[Turn]

I say that it prob be nice if you got some shallow focus happening (stand back a bit and use your zoom!)



i just discovered that i had my picture quality on the lowest! that probably didnt help much!:p

i also found the sharperning and saturation settings, what have you found are the best results using these?


yeh use the highest quality

its best to leave sharpen on the default setting as when its too sharp it can look somewhat unnatural

[kat_loves_photography]

standing back and using my zoom?
really? how does that make a difference?:confused:

[Turn]

standing back and using my zoom?
really? how does that make a difference?:confused:

gah I need JTL to explain it for me but basically the more you zoom in, the distance from the object in focus to the background increases so you get your subject only in focus and in my opinion looks quite cool.

For horse riding it probably isn't the ideal thing to do when you/the subject is moving but using zoom (even a little bit) in general is a good idea

here are two examples that I have.. (sadly I have lost my camera so I can't do a comparison shot right now.)

[kat_loves_photography]

oohhh yeah i think i get it :) i'll try it!


i have one more question, i thought maybe i should post here instead of creating a new topic.

i just bought a hoya 58mm UV lens filter for my S3, thats what the guy in the store said should fit. It seems a little big though and i can't get it to attatch. Am i doing something wrong or do i just have the wrong size? :confused:

[David Metsky]

You can't attach a filter without a lens adapter tube. Did you buy one of those? If so, they come in 52mm and 58mm versions. Which one do you have?

[Turn]

you need a lens adapter.

I have a 58mm aswell so your not wrong there, Adapters are a rip off in my opinion but hey..

[kat_loves_photography]

i just have one more question related to this topic, cuz i posted pics of horseback rding,
so is there any special technique i can use to get the sort of blurred background that indicates motion?

[David Metsky]

You want a shallow depth of field in order to keep your subject in focus and the background out of focus.

http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/depth-of-field.htm
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Depth_of_field
http://www.cs.mtu.edu/~shene/DigiCam/User-Guide/950/depth-of-field.html

You want to put as much distance between you and your subject and push the aperture to the lowest f-stop you can.

ETA: DoF may not be what you are talking about. Are you talking about panning with a moving object (like a horse, for example)? http://www.betterphoto.com/gallery/dynoGall2.asp?catID=97

[kat_loves_photography]

Yes panning with a moving object
how do you do that?

[David Metsky]

Yes panning with a moving object
how do you do that?
Same settings as for shallow DOF (although many cameras with IS have a panning mode which also helps) and just keep the camera moving with the subject. It takes practice.

[Turn]

here's a guy who pretty much exclusively does photos of horses

http://photocrafter.deviantart.com/gallery/?order=9

[d2offrover]

New member here. I have an S3, but have been basically using it as a point and shoot since I got it. Looking to get a 52mm lensmate and filter for now until I get better using the camera.

Thanks for the great tips.

Jerome
www.d2offrover.com