Need help with digital image stabilization

[ken212]

I need some help with digital image stabilization. I am looking into buying a new digital camera and have noticed that a lot have this feature. Which to me would be great since so many of my pictures come out blurry, especally sports and indoor pictures with low lighting and when I use my 10x zoom. I have noticed different companies have different names and I was wondering if thwere was any differences. I have seen digital image stabilization, digital shake reduction, and optical VR image stabilization among others. So can anyone tell me if there are any differences or do different manufacturer's just use different names?

[Visual Reality]

In short...stick with "Optical" and stay away from "Digital".

They are not the same.

[SpecialK]

I need some help with digital image stabilization. I am looking into buying a new digital camera and have noticed that a lot have this feature. Which to me would be great since so many of my pictures come out blurry, especally sports and indoor pictures with low lighting and when I use my 10x zoom. I have noticed different companies have different names and I was wondering if thwere was any differences. I have seen digital image stabilization, digital shake reduction, and optical VR image stabilization among others. So can anyone tell me if there are any differences or do different manufacturer's just use different names?

Slighty longer...

Yes, manufacturers use different names for (in many cases) essentially the same thing.

Optical stabilization is the preferred type, though there are a few methods to it. Canon and Nikon essentially put a little gyro on an element in the lens to offset the movement, while Pentax and Sony move the sensor in the body. Both systems have pros and cons. The in-lens version makes the viewfinder a bit smoother as well, but lenses with IS tend to be a bit more expensive becaue of the extra hardware.

"Digital stabilization", is nothing more than boosting the ISO value which allows a faster shutter speed to help freeze action. The bad part is that as ISO goes up, so does grain, and therefore picture quality goes down.

[David Metsky]

And keep in mind that for sporting events with fast moving action, optical IS won't help too much. It allows you to shoot at a lower shutter speed, which is going to blur the action. Pushing the ISO will help you, but at the cost of noise in your shots.

[Honest Gaza]

As David M said, IS combats the photographer's inability to hold the camera still (eg. unsteady hands), and as such, allows a slightly slower shutter speed.

It does not help if the subject is moving. In fact, the slower shutter speed would possibly create more subject blur in the photo.

[ken212]

I would like to thank everyone for their help, but now after reading this I have another question. I take a lot of pictures of my daughter playing sports. Both inside and outside. She plays basketball (terrible lighting for these games) , lacrosse and field hockey. Since IS does not help with blurring the action, does anyone have any suggestions on how to stop the blurring? Also if I get a camera with IS should I than turn it off if possible when taking pictures of her at her games? Thanks

[SpecialK]

...sports. Both inside and outside. Since IS does not help with blurring the action, does anyone have any suggestions on how to stop the blurring? Also if I get a camera with IS should I than turn it off if possible when taking pictures of her at her games? Thanks

A lens with a large aperture (smaller f number) will allow more light and the use of a faster shutter - at a higher cost.

Leave IS on.

The Fuji F31 is widely regarded as the best high-ISO (low light) performing compact but has a limited zoom. Also, compacts normally have some shutter-lag making the timing of sports shots more difficult.

As with everyone else in the lowlight/sports group, a DSLR is your best (and most expensive) choice, with a fast lens (also expensive). Perhaps $1300 or more for the pair at best (Nikon D50 or Canon XT body if you can find one and a 70-200 f2.8 zoom). Sorry.

[David Metsky]

Since IS does not help with blurring the action, does anyone have any suggestions on how to stop the blurring?
With the camera you have it may not be possible. The best answer is a dSLR with great high ISO and a fast lens. Otherwise, push your ISO up as high as can still produce images that are clean enough and take a lot of photos. If you take enough, at least a few will look OK.

I'd leave IS on as well. You're going to be zoomed all the way in, the IS will help stabilize the camera.

[AlexMonro]

As David and SpecialK have said, the best tool for low light action photography is a DSLR with a fast (wide aperture, say f/2.8) lens, but that comes expensive.

A cheaper possible solution, which may work for you if the light isn't too low is the Fuji S6000 / S6500. This ultrazoom uses the same sensor as the F31, which is better than most compacts for noise at high ISO sensitivity. It doesn't have any form of image stabilisation , though I think there's a feature called "Anti-shake mode", which sets a high ISO - probably best avoided, as it can take it too far - you're better off setting ISO manually. The faster shutter speeds will help control camera shake (as IS does) as well as freezing a moving subject. If you don't make prints bigger than 10x8", and don't take the ISO above 1600, the results shouldn't be too bad - however, you will need a shutter speed of at least 1/250s (which you'll need to freeze action anyway) at full zoom, and there may just not be enough light.

Practicing holding the camera steady, using the viewfinder rather than the rear LCD screen, and bracing your elbows on your chest can all help, and if you can brace youself against a wall, pillar, or the back of a seat, so much the better. It also helps if you can squeeze the shutter button gently, rather than stabbing at it - hard to restrain yourself in the heat of the action, I know, but it comes easier with practice.