First pics with my new toy...

[gilly]

Well I still can't get the smile off my face! Totally happy with the purchases.

I've got lots to learn though that's for sure!

First pics guys... Here are the Forth Road Bridge and Rail Bridge in Edinburgh. Just a few quick shots on Saturday while the sun was out for a change. I have only applied a slight amount of USM to these and played with the levels. - I was still even impressed with the shots straight off the camera.

Here's the 10-22 @10mm f/20. I don't think I'd stop all the way down to f/20 for this stuff again, next time i'll try f/11-16 - would it be at it's sharpest there? And it's distorted the hell out of the bridges, probably not the best subject matter at 10mm...

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a44/gilly81/10mmf-20800.jpg


And the gorgeous 70-200 f/2.8 IS... MAN this is a sharp lens!!!! I walked back another 15m or so and got this one of the rail bridge..
195mm @ f/2.8.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a44/gilly81/195f-2.jpg


100% crop of above... Can even make out the rivets. All handheld - I'm impressed!

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a44/gilly81/195f-2-1.jpg



So all up - money well spent and I'm a happy man. Only gripe so far is dust on the sensor of the 30D straight out of the box! AWESOME! So a rocket blower is next followed by Sensor Swabs/Eclipse fluid on the shopping list and yes I'm nervous about my first swipe at it already!

cheers
gilly

[cdifoto]

You bought a bridge? Awesome. :D

[adam75south]

congrats on the purchases. the reason you're seeing the dust on the sensor is because of the whole f/20 thing. most lenses are sharpest between f/8 and f/11 and shooting around there should hide your sensor dust as well.

[gilly]

the reason you're seeing the dust on the sensor is because of the whole f/20 thing.

Ahh right. So it's not all as bad as I first thought then.. Still so much to learn. I thought if I wanted everything in focus and pin sharp f/20+ was the way to go.

[adam75south]

nah, the wider you go, the easier it is to get everything in focus. at 10mm pretty much everything's gonna be in focus no matter the aperture.

here's a depth of field calculator, i think you have to adjust for the 1.6x crop so you 10mm will be 16mm but i'm not 100% sure on that.....edit, actually the dof calculator i posted will automatically adjust if you select 30d as your camera.
http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html

[DonSchap]

at least you didn't have to pay extra for the dust.

It only gets worse, though. LOL

What speed were you at for the shot? You didn't mention that. A real challenge is to drop it down to about 1/30-second, set ISO to 100 and reshoot the same shot. The aperture may tighten a bit, but you can get some of that back with a Circular Polarizer. Then evaluate those rivets. That'll be the real test of the lens ... the "fringe" type of shot, not the "down the middle" stuff. Most lenses will offer you that, for a heck of a lot less.

Good lookin' shot, by the way.

[JMWallace]

You bought a bridge? Awesome. :D

Actually, I think the full package was 2 bridges, water, a tugboat and some rocks. The package was discounted because it was rocky front property instead of sand.:p

[gilly]

nah, the wider you go, the easier it is to get everything in focus. at 10mm pretty much everything's gonna be in focus no matter the aperture.

here's a depth of field calculator, i think you have to adjust for the 1.6x crop so you 10mm will be 16mm but i'm not 100% sure on that.....edit, actually the dof calculator i posted will automatically adjust if you select 30d as your camera.
http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html

Great thanks for that I'll check that out.. 10mm at f/3.5 I can't say I was that impressed?? Maybe I have a bad copy. Next weekend I'll have to devote to testing that lens properly I think. The 70-200 on the other hand - GORGEOUS is the only word to describe that. awesome lens.

cheers
gilly

[gilly]

at least you didn't have to pay extra for the dust.

It only gets worse, though. LOL

What speed were you at for the shot? You didn't mention that. A real challenge is to drop it down to about 1/30-second, set ISO to 100 and reshoot the same shot. The aperture may tighten a bit, but you can get some of that back with a Circular Polarizer. Then evaluate those rivets. That'll be the real test of the lens ... the "fringe" type of shot, not the "down the middle" stuff. Most lenses will offer you that, for a heck of a lot less.

Good lookin' shot, by the way.

Yeah not looking forward to all this dust.

All shots were at ISO 100. Shot in Av mode. Circular polarizer is also on the shopping list!

[coldrain]

The "distortion" you see is not a distortion from the lens, but because you are pointing the camera up or downwards. With wide angle photos like this, make sure the camera is level... ie: aim with the center of the frame at the horizon are anything else that is on eye level. Like doorways with buildings.

[gilly]

The "distortion" you see is not a distortion from the lens, but because you are pointing the camera up or downwards. With wide angle photos like this, make sure the camera is level... ie: aim with the center of the frame at the horizon are anything else that is on eye level. Like doorways with buildings.

Something else to try for next weekend then! Thanks.

[cwphoto]

Great thanks for that I'll check that out.. 10mm at f/3.5 I can't say I was that impressed?? Maybe I have a bad copy. Next weekend I'll have to devote to testing that lens properly I think. The 70-200 on the other hand - GORGEOUS is the only word to describe that. awesome lens.

cheers
gilly

Nice combo. 10mm @ f/3.5 ain't supposed to be great on any wide zoom - don't expect too much from this.