FZ1 indoor photos

[C.Burke]

I recently purchased an FZ1 and am very pleased with the overall performance. The image stabilzation and ease of use, as well as color are all great. The problem I am experiencing is with indoor flash photography. The photos are dark and the color is not pleasing. I have tried several flash setting without any improvement. Since this camera will not accept and external flash, can anyone recomend a remedy for this situation.

[PhilR.]

It is not possible to recommend a remedy until we know what it is you are trying to photograph, what distance your subjects are at, what mode you are using, etc..

By the way, you *can* use an external flash on any camera that already has a flash. It is called a slave flash, and it is a separate flash that activates itself when it detects the flash from your camera's built-in flash.

PhilR.

[C.Burke]

Thanks for the reply Phil. I am using the camera indoors primarily for portraits. I have tried the portrait setting, as well as simple and normal picture modes. The ISO setting is on auto. The white balance is set to auto. The picture adjustment is set to natural. The subjects are less than 10 feet away. Can you recommed any setting that might help...Thank you

[John_Reed]

Thanks for the reply Phil. I am using the camera indoors primarily for portraits. I have tried the portrait setting, as well as simple and normal picture modes. The ISO setting is on auto. The white balance is set to auto. The picture adjustment is set to natural. The subjects are less than 10 feet away. Can you recommed any setting that might help...Thank you
1) One thing that can lead to poor flash output for the FZ1 is anything that blocks its light sensor. There's a little flash sensor on the camera body just above and a little to the right of the "c" in "Panasonic." (as you look at the front of the camera) Be sure this has an unimpeded "view" of the scene. One thing you can try is to temporarily block this sensor with your finger, which will cause the flash to generate its maximum output.
2) In particular, do NOT use the supplied lens hood for your shots, which can also shade and block some of the flash output.
3) Always use the flash only with the original metal ring that comes mounted on the lens barrel in place. I learned this lesson when I was trying to shoot flash shots with a Yoshida lens adaptor ring in place. Because the adaptor "back-reflected" the flash output, I kept getting dark photos.
4) There is a "Flash" setting on the WB menu. Use it.

It sounds like you also have not upgraded your FZ1's firmware to version 2, which is something you might think of sometime down the road. But frankly, I've gotten beautiful portrait results using the FZ1; I once served as the official "portrait photographer" at my wife's class reunion, and took about 40 flash shots of individuals and couples at about 8-10 feet distant. They all came out very well, and there was also no redeye in any of them! I'd like to see some of your "bad" results just to see what's going wrong for you.

[PhilR.]

Hello again C.,

By any chance, is there a lot of white or very light colors in either the subject or the backround? If so, this will reflect more light than normal back to the flash sensor, causing the flash to cut itself off too soon, which causes underexposed shots.
If your camera has the ability to change the flash exposure setting, you might try playing with it. It might just be all that you need to expose correctly. Also, make sure that the flash is actually rated to go out to 10 feet. It might not be (although Mr. Reed does not seem to have problems). It these don't work, then you might have to go to manual mode and open the aperture a bit more when using flash, if the camera isn't open all the way already (which it might be).

Mr. Reed wrote: "One thing that can lead to poor flash output for the FZ1 is anything that blocks its light sensor."

I would have to disagree w/Mr. Reed's comment about blocking the flash sensor leading to poor flash output. Doing this will cause great light output and overexposure, as the camera will not sense any light return and therefore pump out as much light as it can. As Mr. Reed has always demonstrated great composure on this forum, I'm sure he won't mind, and he did correct himself further in the paragraph anyway. ;)

I believe that if white balance is set to auto, then one does not need to mess with it when using flash, as the camera knows what color the light output will be.

PhilR.

[C.Burke]

Thank you Phil R. and Mr. Reed for your replies. Some photos were shot indoors with white walls for a background. Most were standard indoor portraits with overhead lights or lamps for lighting. Biggest issue seems that most are really underexposed. I will retrieve some images from another computer where they are stored so that you can see the prolbem. The first time I used the flash, I had the adapter ring for the lens hood on which difinitely vignettes the photo. Thanks again

[PhilR.]

Some photos were shot indoors with white walls for a background.

This could be the problem. The white walls bounce back excessive light, thereby causing the flash to shut down prematurely, thereby causing underexposure. You didn't mention if flash photos of normal scenes come out OK, but I would try a few more with flash compensation adjusted for more light. I'll bet you do fine.

PhilR.

[Billiam]

It is not possible to recommend a remedy until we know what it is you are trying to photograph, what distance your subjects are at, what mode you are using, etc..

By the way, you *can* use an external flash on any camera that already has a flash. It is called a slave flash, and it is a separate flash that activates itself when it detects the flash from your camera's built-in flash.

PhilR.

Phil,

I've had the same mixed results with the onboard flash as C.Burke, mostly with underexposed subjects in indoor snapshots. I'm looking at getting a slave for my own FZ1v2 . What I'd like to do is bounce the slave to soften the direct light from the on-camera flash. What puzzles me is, how do I get the exposure right with that combination? My guess is that I'd need to put the camera in apature priority mode with the appropriate f/stop, and use the slave in automatic to let it meter the combination of it's light, the camera flash and the ambient light. Sound workable?

[leadeater]

Hi Billiam,

I've not ever used a slave flash in digital photography, so I don't know the exact mechanics of doing such. However, your plan is exactly how it would be done with a 35mm slr, at least when putting extra light on the subject (I don't think it will matter if you are lighting up the backround). I would hazard a guess and say that should work in the digital world as well. Definitely let us know what you find out, once you get your slave flash.

PhilR.

[John_Reed]

Thank you Phil R. and Mr. Reed for your replies. Some photos were shot indoors with white walls for a background. Most were standard indoor portraits with overhead lights or lamps for lighting. Biggest issue seems that most are really underexposed. I will retrieve some images from another computer where they are stored so that you can see the prolbem. The first time I used the flash, I had the adapter ring for the lens hood on which difinitely vignettes the photo. Thanks againSometimes you might think you're getting a good shot and it'll wind up out of focus. I've noticed this particularly in taking a shot of two people; if I frame them, focus and shoot, the durn camera may have picked the wall behind them to focus on, and their faces come out blurry! Always pick a particular person at the correct distance, and then re-frame after you lock auto-focus. I've made this mistake both with my FZ1 and FZ10. Maybe the newer focusing capabilities of the the "Venus II" cameras will avoid this trap.