went to a sports meet

[mediyoga]

Hi all went to a sports meet - here are some captures--- from the 70-300 IS- mostly on shutter priority
Thanks for looking and commenting:)

[mediyoga]

the second

[mediyoga]

third one here - a cool cat - shutter speed 1/2500 iso 640

[mediyoga]

the 4th one 1/2500 iso 1250

[mediyoga]

the 5th one

[mediyoga]

finally succeeded from the trampoline to the basket

[forno]

It must have been a hazy day as the kite pics are a bit soft but the rest seem ok.

I would try and drop the SS for the action shots as whne you get it right the wheels will appear to be turning but the bike will be sharp, giving a sense of motion;)

[mediyoga]

Thanks Forno. Will try that. did not occur to me !

[24Peter]

Krishna! Wow - that's some sports meet. It's been a while since I've seen anyone drive a motorcycle through a flaming hoop! When I was growing up, all we had were rusty horseshoes and empty toxic waste 55 gallon drums to play in. But I digress... :rolleyes:
What is with the ISO 640/1250? Listen to forno! You should be at ISO 100 - 200 at most for those shots. :mad:

[mediyoga]

Krishna! Wow - that's some sports meet. It's been a while since I've seen anyone drive a motorcycle through a flaming hoop! When I was growing up, all we had were rusty horseshoes and empty toxic waste 55 gallon drums to play in. But I digress... :rolleyes:
What is with the ISO 640/1250? Listen to forno! You should be at ISO 100 - 200 at most for those shots. :mad:

Tks Peter
Since most of the subjects were not fair skinned and the sun was high, I tended to get dark subjects. Hence I raised the ISO to let in more light as the time of shoot was around 10 am . In India the sun is very intense:o
krishna

[cwphoto]

Tks Peter
Since most of the subjects were not fair skinned and the sun was high, I tended to get dark subjects. Hence I raised the ISO to let in more light as the time of shoot was around 10 am . In India the sun is very intense:o
krishna

Kris, this doesn't make sense mate. Raising the ISO does nothing to change how the camera will meter the scene.

I'm guessing what you need is some exposure compensation. If so, just keep the ISO at 100-200 as suggested, and dial in EC via the rear dial in P, Av or Tv. :)

[mediyoga]

CW
What I gambled was that if the iso let in more light than needed and I was on shutter Priority the aperture would then automatically give a correct exposure

However, I must mention that I find it difficult expose subjects under the sun - as the shadow and sunlit areas tend to give too many differences.

How does one adjust exp compensation in this scenario?
If you lower it the shadow areas will get darker and if over the lit areas will overexpose:confused:

[cwphoto]

CW
What I gambled was that if the iso let in more light than needed and I was on shutter Priority the aperture would then automatically give a correct exposure

However, I must mention that I find it difficult expose subjects under the sun - as the shadow and sunlit areas tend to give too many differences.

How does one adjust exp compensation in this scenario?
If you lower it the shadow areas will get darker and if over the lit areas will overexpose:confused:

The ISO doesn't "let in more light" because each change in ISO you make will simply make the camera select a corresponding change in exposure - there is no exposure gain simply by raising or lowering the ISO.

For high contrast sceens you simply make a compromise: either lose the highlights to gain detail in the shadows or lose shadows to gain detail in the highlights.

Or keep the exposure as per the camera's recommendations and be content with 'average' exposure.

[24Peter]

The ISO doesn't "let in more light" because each change in ISO you make will simply make the camera select a corresponding change in exposure - there is no exposure gain simply by raising or lowering the ISO.

For high contrast sceens you simply make a compromise: either lose the highlights to gain detail in the shadows or lose shadows to gain detail in the highlights.

Or keep the exposure as per the camera's recommendations and be content with 'average' exposure.

Yeah Krishna, ISO by itself does nothing to change your exposure. All raising your ISO does is make the sensor more "sensitive" by turning up the electronic gain. But the more electronic gain, the more electronic noise, which is why we usually seek to shoot at the lowest ISO possible. Unless you are shooting in "manual" mode, the camera will always seek to find the proper exposure (based on the metering mode you have selected) by varying either (or both in "P" mode) the shutter speed or apeture for a given ISO. (Some cameras have auto ISO, meaning in auto mode the camera will find the best combination of shutter/apeture/ISO, but not your 30D.)

You are wise to choose "Tv" mode for shooting sports. To "freeze" the action for sports shots, you usually want to be at 1/500th shutter speed or higher (1/1000th is probably optimal for most events, but for motorsports for instance, sometimes a slower shutter is appropriate to catch the blur of the wheel rotations and/or for panning the background - check out some of Christian's excellent auto racing shots to see what I mean.) So on a bright, sunny day under that intense Indian sun, 1/500th shutter might translate into F8-11 (or higher) with ISO 100. Want to blur the background a bit more than F11? That means opening the apeture. But opening the apeture means more light. You can either raise your shutter speed to compensate, or put a filter on the lens to reduce the amount of light hitting the sensor (polarizer or ND filter.) But raising the ISO in such a situation will only make the problem worse, requiring shutter speeds of 1/2500th as you experienced.