s6000fd accessories?

[soccerjoe5]

hey guys, what accessories would be awesome/vital for the s6000fd? :)

[unclebrudy]

1. (Many will disagree with me on this one, just FYI) If you're OCD like me, a quality UV filter is a must, not because of its claimed "reduction of UV haze" (which is fairly moot unless you live in real high altitudes), but as a lens protector. I say 'quality' because even the best UV filters will reduce IQ a little because it's essentially another obstruction between your s6k's lens and the image, so getting a good one with a multicoat is a must. I've used a Hoya SuperHMC until I custom made my own and it worked great. I like UV filters because they're easy to clean, pretty much prevent dust buildup on the camera's actual lens element, and if it breaks, you can just pop on another.

2. At least 2 sets of 2500mAh NiMHs and a fast charger. Still, the s6k is really great when it comes to battery life so unless you plan on shooting extended days on trip sans charger, 2 sets should suffice for an average day. I've filled up 2 1gb xDs full of flash photos and random videos and I went through only 1 set and the second set was still firing when I got home.

...to be continued, going to Disneyland....

[unclebrudy]

3. Any combination of xD cards that amounts to at the very least 1gb. Remember, if you're a serious shooter and plan to do a lot of RAW, 1gb is good for just over 60 images, so purchase accordingly. Online e-tailors have 1gb sticks at really good prices, so just shop around in your area.

4. Though your s6k will hopefully spend the bulk of its time on your neck or in front of your face shooting, you'll need a good bag to store it in. Everybody has their own preferences on this, so choose one that fits your liking, i.e. small enough just to fit the camera or large enough to hold all the accessories. I use this Samsonite 641 (http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=3765554) bag because it fits everything from my charger to my lens hood and even my F30 in one of the side pockets.

5. A more comfortable neck strap, or at least an additional padding for the stock one. (Btw, am I the only one whose neck is irritated by the stock thin strap?)

That's all I use. I guess what's left are stuff you may already own like a tripod or monopod, a screen protector if you want the LCD to have an extra layer of protection (mine doesn't have one and it is *knock on wood* still scratch-free.) Good luck and make sure to post some pics!

-Brian

[soccerjoe5]

thanks for the great replies, brian! :)

i'm quite a newbie, could you tell me what OCD and IQ mean? :o

oh and where could i get those UV filters you mentioned? :)

[unclebrudy]

OCD - Obsessive Compulsive Disorder. When I say that, I mean I'm one of those people who can't stand any dust or moisture buildup on my lens, so having a screw-on UV filter helps prevent that and is much easier to clean than the lens. Plus, worse case scenario, if your lens were to get struck, the filter is relatively inexpensive to replace versus the actual lens.

Something like this Hoya filter (http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Hoya-HMC-Multi-coated-58mm-UV-filter-Made-In-Japan_W0QQitemZ290066420296QQihZ019QQcategoryZ6735 3QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem) is a nice economical one. You don't necessarily need to buy from this seller, just using it as an example. Adorama.com, Amazon.com, and many other big e-tailers are good places to shop around. Just search for a "58mm UV Filter" and make sure it has some kind of Multicoat. Good brands are Hoya & B+W (though expensive, IMO too expensive). Stay away from Sunpak, it's a brand you'll find at big retailers like Fry's & Best Buy. I had one and it was terrible in that I had a lot of ghost reflections & lens flare.

If you want a quick fix & have a local Ritz Camera or one of their affilitates, pickup a Quantaray brand 58mm UV Haze Filter. I vouch for its quality, because I checked one at work and it is class, real easy to clean and is good glass. It's under $20USD, which is pretty average. Try not to spend more than $30 total if you order online. If you get confused let me know and I can steer you in the right direction.

IQ - Image Quality. Even with the best UV filters, it is still basically another piece of glass in front of your lens, which is a precise optical device designed by the manufacturer to perform at its very best without anything in front of it. While the UV filter's impact on your general image quality is probably not going to be noticeable at all, if it causes a ghost reflection or lens flare you'll definitely notice it. I just brought up the image quality issue because photo purists will argue it, and I didn't want to leave it out. You're just more concerned with the ghosting and lens flaring. If you need examples of this let me know and I'll post some pics after work when I get home.

-Brian

[CMYanko]

Tripod - The single best way to improve your photo's is to use a tripod more often. I have an UltraPod Digital which I use a lot and am eyeing up a Manfrotto for a standard sized one.

Polarizer - can be added to the list of filters if you're going to be doing a lot of outdoor photo's. You have to learn when and how to use them but very usefull once you do.

[cam0063]

Hi,

I am new to the forum as a poster and am also the new owner of a S6500SD as they are known here Down Under... Are any S6500sd/S6000fd users, utilizing tele converter/multiplyer screw on lenses? The 28-300 zoom is great and would cater to near all puroposes of the Tele range. However I enjoy wildlife photography and there are the odd occassions where a longer lens can be handy. I heard from Fuji a few days ago and they mentioned Raynox as a source. I believe Tiffen, Cokin and Kenko make them or made them. Tho I have found little info except on the Raynox DCR 2020PRO 2.2X ... 1.5x would be a great addition, I would even settle for a 2x converter... But I would only go this path if the results were worth it.

Any one have experiences with this area of accessories?

Cheers and Happy New Year,

Cam...

[CMYanko]

No experience with he tele converters but people have reported good things about the Raynox on the Panisonics. I' m guessing Fuji doesn't offer on since their cameras aren't optically stabilized but if your willing to use a tipod I'd guess you'd have decent luck with one.

I just picked up a Tiffen UV filter finally and a little cleaning pen with a brush on one end a some magic cleaning compound on the other.

I was looking at the tiffen Circular Polarizer at the camera store as well but it was $56! Yikes. I keep staring at the Manfrotto Modo tripod as well (758B I think).

[CMYanko]

Ok, in the 'it seems too good to be true' category I went shopping around the internet for 58mm Circular Polarizers. Adorama did have the Tiffen for something like $38 which seemed like a decent price. Then I saw a listing at Amazon for the 58mm Photo Essentials Kit, a UV, 812 Warming and CP plus a 4 filter pouch for $28!

http://www.amazon.com/Tiffen-58mm-Photo-Essentials-Filter/dp/B00004ZCKZ

What seems crazy is that it is from Adorama who list the same kit for $58

[DavidNJ]

Do these cameras react to the same filters as video cameras? In video, the compression is so severe that it really pays to fix the problem with filters.

In video I use a black diffusion (small, .5) indoors 90% of the time. I use an ultra contrast (2) indoors and out depending on the desired dynamic range. Outdoors in the daytime, a polarizing filter. Also outdoors, some ND filters will allow you to open up the lens more.

To the best of my knowledge there are no color adjustments in the camera, so you may also want so color altering filters. Examples in the Tiffen catalog are not a bad guide.

One thing I've noticed from the reviews is that the S6000 seems to have a better lens the $100 18-55 lens thrown on low-end SLR kits; their good lenses are $400-700. So, I would stay with good glass: Tiffen, Schneider, etc.

[burna]

.....and am also the new owner of a S6500SD as they are known here Down Under...

Are you sure it's an "SD"? Check the top of your flash.
Mine's DEFINITELY an FD, for "Face Detection".

[cam0063]

Burna, yep you picked up a typo - S6500FD not SD.... A wizz with the keyboards I am not... Great Camera. Will be very interested to hear of any news on tele converters/extenders for these cameras. Wildlife photography is of particular interest when I visit the US and Sth Africa. Not something to use all the time, but handy to have in the kit bag for use on a tripod or sand bag rest when the oportunity arises... Its a shame Fuji donot have a tele converter available. Will keep searching for info...

cheers,

Cam...

[CMYanko]

I just ordered that filter kit so I'll report back on it later.

[mattdm]

Ok, in the 'it seems too good to be true' category I went shopping around the internet for 58mm Circular Polarizers.

Note that you don't need a circular polarizer on a non-SLR digital camera. A cheaper linear polarizer will work just as well. Actually better, because they have a stronger effect.

[nesbitt_bub1]

for mine i have

a velbon sherpa 200r tripod. cheap very stable. bombproof.
a hoya +4 close up filter ( will be buying a second as well).
a hama circ polarizer with uv filter.
case logic case
1GB H type xd.

a standalone uv filter maybe nice, but it's hardly essential. a cheap polarizer can be more useful as it will allow you to take piccies though windows ect. There easy to attach and remove. So you just put them back on for lens protection at the end of the session if your not using it. If you shooting in dark condition take all the filters off the camera... polorizers reduce you fstop by 2 or more...

tripod is essential for this camera. Not having IS means your reliant on either higher iso's or steady hands. Tripod's are fairly cheap and very useful. The sherpa is great, the luxi is a little more portable but wobbles more. Once you get the hang of the tripod you'll never look back... it's constant hands free shooting. plus you can sctatch your arse while taking a shot. :D

If your in the dark high iso's with long shutter times, you need a tripod.
If your taking portraits you need a tripod.
If your taking macro's of insects you need a tripod.
If your taking pictures of racing be it cars or horses you need the tripod! in fact always have a tripod... there a bloody godsend!

make a flash supressor.... just a but of paper or plastic that sits in front of the flash bulb... it'll stop any harsh bright spots on peoples foreheads :) No offense to anyone but i find you almost always need one to get good pictures of coloured people. Too much flash make dark skin look unaturally greasy... a little supression on the flash diffues that light, so you get broader light with fewer hard spots.

[westte]

I'm a 'coloured' person about to buy an s6000....boy that last remark made me laugh.
Concerning IS, is that a luxury feature that's made us lazy, or a necessity that the S6000 makes up for with its image quality. I ask because of oyur insistence on using a tripod. Is the lack of a tripod going to be detrimental to the shot?

[bdod1880]

If your taking pictures of racing be it cars or horses you need the tripod!

I'm going to be very disappointed if this camera doesn't do at least as well as my S5000 with racing shots. Here's some shots with the S5000, all hand held. http://www.clss.net/~bdod/BH%20Photos.htm Getting the hang of moving the camera with the cars, especially from the infield, was a bit tricky at first. I would think that using a tripod would make this especially difficult.

One of the reasons I bought the S6000fd was to improve my racing photos. We'll have to wait until April though to try it out. That's when they'll be hitting the dirt tracks around here again.

Bud

[flippedgazelle]

Bud, those are some very nice racing photos!

Perhaps when nesbitt mentioned racing he was thinking circular/oval tracks, where it is easier to gauge the velocity of the subjects. In that case, I usually see photographers shooting either handheld or with monopods.

[nesbitt_bub1]

Nah i tend to shoot formula student.

Problem therein lies that it always rains when we test them. Were also not allowed on the tracks, so you have to telephoto if you want anything at range. Hence pod. It's also nice to use a sightly longer shutter time and try get some directional blur to the shot. again you need a pod or you rick making the bur wobble!


Anyhow... You can take piccies handheld! I'm just a firm beliver in Pods... they make your pictures better by reducing human error a little... Something that is well worth it IMHO.

[bdod1880]

Were also not allowed on the tracks, so you have to telephoto if you want anything at range. Hence pod.

I can understand that nesbitt. The racing I've been shooting is oval dirt track 1/3 mile and I got in the infield by invitation one time only. Quite fun and quite an experience. Of all the tracks I've been to though, I've never seen a track photographer use a tripod or monopod in this type of racing. Now I'm certain that their equipment more than makes up for the lack of a stable platform. :D The kind of equipment I can't really afford.

Anyway, sorry to direct this thread off subject a bit. My apologies to soccerjoe5

Nice cat pics flippedgazelle, and good luck all with your S6000fd.

Bud

[soccerjoe5]

hey guys, looks like i'm getting the s9100 instead :)

i saw some ebay sellers selling all these telephoto lenses for the s9100, from 2X to 3X. i think i'd really like to get those since i'd want to take action still at soccer games :)

what do you think of those telephoto lenses? :)

[troop]

I just bought a 58mm 2x telephoto lense for my camera and I'm glad I only paid $26 for it. It'll work ok outside when your lense is zoomed out approx. 1/3, otherwise you'll have tunnel/barrel type effects. Don't plan on these helping you with a 9100 either, especially on indoor shots.... Troop

[soccerjoe5]

I just bought a 58mm 2x telephoto lense for my camera and I'm glad I only paid $26 for it. It'll work ok outside when your lense is zoomed out approx. 1/3, otherwise you'll have tunnel/barrel type effects. Don't plan on these helping you with a 9100 either, especially on indoor shots.... Troop

so it isn't really that nice? if i want a nice 2x or 3x zoom lens for the 9100, what brands can you recommend? i'd want these for outdoor soccer games, so lighting isn't an issue

[troop]

I don't think it has to do with the quality of the 2x lense but just the way the camera/lense are.

[burna]

Note that you don't need a circular polarizer on a non-SLR digital camera. A cheaper linear polarizer will work just as well. Actually better, because they have a stronger effect.

When I sold my 35mm SLR, I kept the circular polariser but as you say, it doesn't seem to make much of a difference on my S6500fd.

Do you know why this is?

[CMYanko]

They only work at right angles to the sun. If the sun is straight up then it will work in any direction toward the horizon. When the sun is in the East it works North and South. Google around for a graphic showing how to make a 'L" with your pointer and thumb. With your pointer pointing at the sun the polarizer will work in any direction you can rotate your thumb while still pointing at the sun.

[mattdm]

Circular polarizers are necessary on an SLR because a beam-splitter is used to deflect a portion of the incoming light from the viewfinder to the autofocus and metering system. The reflection of the light in the beam-splitter polarizes it, so if you've already got polarized light coming in, the two polarizations will clash and you'll not be able to focus or meter. Non-slr cameras don't have a viewfinder that looks through the lens, so have no need for a beam splitter, and can use a simpler and more effective linear polarizer.

And CMYanko -- polarizers only work at the proper angle to *whatever* you're trying to polarize. They're a lot more useful than just making the sky darker blue (where the angle of the sun is important) -- you can also use them to decrease reflections from glass or from the surface of water.

[nesbitt_bub1]

My circ polorizer is fine with the s6500FD. I've got a fairly cheap hama one. Cuts through glass at the correct angle like already stated. About 30degrees to the side, any less than that you get reflections.. Same applies to water, Once you get the angle there fine.

Mines also a Uv filter as well.. it drops about 2 stops of light through the lens and is perfect for hazy reasonably sunny days... I wouldn't spend a lot of money on a polorizer for this camera however... £30 would be my top bugdet.

[mattdm]

My circ polorizer is fine with the s6500FD.

Yeah, it'll work -- just not necessary.

[burna]

OK, it seems I've forgotten how to use the polariser. It has been about 5 yrs since I last used my 35mm SLR. Now that I'm following the rules it seems to be working OK.

Mine is a Hama also, was probably fairly cheap. I just seem to remember it being much more effective on the 35mm.

I think it may be just harder to tell when viewing on the LCD screen, and the EVF would be hopeless in this situation. You prob'ly need a deeper understanding of the principles when using with a digital as opposed to just seeing it with 35mm.

[burna]

Does anyone know if there is a cable release available that would fit the S6000/6500?

[P_Schneider]

You cannot use a cable release with the S6K, there is no thread on the shutter button.

[burna]

I'm sure I have seen one that didn't require a threaded shutter release button but I can't find it now. I'll just keep using the timer.

[nosam]

Could anyone tell me if the S6000 lens cap will fit over a filter attached to the lens? I'm assuming the answer is yes. But I would like to make sure as I am about to spend around $70 on a good UV/Protector and a quality linear polarizer.

Polarizer:
http://www.adorama.com/BW58PL.html

UV:
http://www.adorama.com/HY58UVM.html

Also, does anyone have an opinion of these particular filters?

Thanks again.

[unclebrudy]

Lens cap will clip into both of those filters with no problem.

I've used a similar Hoya brand UV filter and it was fine. That one seems like it'll serve its purpose. I use Hoya in my optical lab (we fabricate eyeglass lenses) and they are a great company. Bear in mind though, I found my Hoya filter to be a pain in the a$$ to clean. I actually found Vodka (!) was the most successful at cleaning it.

B+W is also great, but you'd save more money and get just as good results with a Hoya brand (sheesh, now I feel like I work for Hoya). Also, good job looking into a linear polarizer, it may be easier to use and will give similar results versus a circular. Just my 2c though, because I tend to try to save money hopefully without sacrificing quality.

[nosam]

Lens cap will clip into both of those filters with no problem.

I've used a similar Hoya brand UV filter and it was fine. That one seems like it'll serve its purpose. I use Hoya in my optical lab (we fabricate eyeglass lenses) and they are a great company. Bear in mind though, I found my Hoya filter to be a pain in the a$$ to clean. I actually found Vodka (!) was the most successful at cleaning it.

Wow, Vodka?! That's interesting. Anyway, I'm glad to hear that Hoya is a good brand. I hope the particular one I'm looking at isn't the same way in regards to cleaning. But, If I have to spend time cleaning a part of my camera, I guess I'd prefer it to be a filter instead of the actual lens.

B+W is also great, but you'd save more money and get just as good results with a Hoya brand (sheesh, now I feel like I work for Hoya). Also, good job looking into a linear polarizer, it may be easier to use and will give similar results versus a circular. Just my 2c though, because I tend to try to save money hopefully without sacrificing quality.

Now here's where I've been reading conflicting information. According to most of what I've read, I don't need a circular polarizer because I don't have a DSLR. Correct?

The reason I was looking at that particular B+W was because it was coated. And I didn't see a coated linear polarizer from Hoya. I'm guessing some people will say it does matter and others will say it doesn't. But if it makes any noticeable difference in IQ then I'm ok with spending a little more... I think. :rolleyes: Although I'm all about saving money as well.

Thanks for your help.