s5100 vs. cameras with Anti Shake ie: Minolta Z3

[robwmc]

I am a FujiFilm camera owner looking to upgrade, I have enjoyed my FujiFilm Finepic 4900 but time to move on. One problem I have had with the 4900 is holding the camera still for zoom shots up to maximum distance of 6X optical. Would love to shoot distance shots without the blurr. Some reviews refer to the s5100 fast shutter speed with minimal blurred shots at long distance shots. Other reviews of Anti shake ability say you still should use tripod for perfect distance shots but anti shake does work better with handheld shots than those cameras that don't have it.

Does the s5100, when handheld, blurr at distance shots?
Does cameras like the Minolta Z3 with 12X zoom blurr at full zoom when handheld?

I'm torn between these two cameras, my heart wants me to stay with Fuji but I'm tired of deleting blurred pictures.

[fenix]

In my opinion both are going have motion blur at full zoom, (unless you have the hands of a brain surgeon) the question which you would be better off asking is how much blur?

Even that may be irrelevant, because from your post you seem quite concerned ie, your considering spending 30%+ more for a z3; then you should in all likelyhood be using atleast a prosumer(i find something disturbing about that word) grade tripod, (get one that is adjustable to a comfortable height, not counting on the center column either).

Once you have one of those rigged up you should be able to take quite steady ultrazoom shots. :cool:

But on the flipside, its not always possible to get a tripod setup in time for that impromptu shot.

[leadeater]

Does the s5100, when handheld, blurr at distance shots?

It is not the camera that causes blurring, but rather it is the movement of the camera. That is why tripod shots at great magnification generally come out fine, but handheld ones don't.

Does cameras like the Minolta Z3 with 12X zoom blurr at full zoom when handheld?

Not always. Again, it's not the camera that blurs. If the photographer is reasonably steady, then many shots will come out fine, but not all of them. When shooting at high magnification, one has to accept that not all of the shots are going to come out fine (even with image stabilisation). On the other hand, I can say that having a feature like image stabilisation can help, but you also have to realize that it can only do so much.

I'm torn between these two cameras, my heart wants me to stay with Fuji but I'm tired of deleting blurred pictures.

Image stabilisation can help a lot, as long as you don't expect it to perform miracles. If you are really shakey, then IS probably won't help but in a few pics. Since you are torn between these two, let me suggest the Panasonic FZ3, so you an feel a lot better....:)


hth,
PhilR.

[Mike Canada]

There is one simple rule to remember KISS ( Keep it simple stup..)

The focal length of the lens you are using should be no greater than the inverse of the shutter speed for sharp pics. ( ie 60 mm = 1/60 sec).

Most humans can hold a camera steady to 1/100 sec (No Breathing!!) , but for any focal length above 100mm ( 35 mm equiv!) you should use a tripod or monopod, ... or hold the camera upside down and brace it against your forehead to minimize vibration and shake. ( THE EASIEST THING TO DESTROY A 100+ mm SHOT)