Suggestion for good DSLR kit for birding.

[ThmsWalsh]

Hello.

A couple of months ago I started a thread asking about a DSLR set-up for birding.
http://www.dcresource.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25459

I have been thinking about what was said and my budget appeared to be a bit limited. So I decided to start a new thread, this time I would like suggestions on what you would recommend to purchase to get a 'good' birding set-up with no budget constraint. (I felt the old thread was a bit long to ask there, same people could miss the updated question). I would like to use it to capture both birds in flight and resting. Sometimes would be used at night, dawn for photographs of resting birds (limited subject movement) but could also be used under a forest canopy.

A good birding set-up (At least in my case) would be relatively light and compact meaning it would be impractical to include more then 2 or 3 lenses and one body out at a time.

Thanks
Thomas

[Rhys]

A good dSLR setup can mean 1 of 2 things:
1. Good in that everything is the absolute latest (until next year)
2. Good in that it does what it's supposed to.

I am presuming you're interested in the latter.

There are 6, 8 and 10 megapixel dSLRs which are commonplace now. The fact is they're all so similar in megapixel size that there's little noticable difference between them. It's like the old debate over 1.3mp versus 2mp. Both will do a nice 5x7 and at a stretch a 10x8. 3mp will do a nice 10x8 although many people now say it won't do more than a 5x7 - purely because that's what marketting hype dictates. I have on my wall some very nice 10x8 3mp photos and I believe John Reed has a very nice 2mp 10x8 photo on his wall.

Ok. That's the hype over megapixels dealt with. For birding photos you need two things: a long lens and image stabilisation and/or a clean high ISO.

Typically primes are better choices than zooms because they have a faster aperture and are lighter to carry. Birds being small, the more zoom power the better.

Pentax has an interesting body in the K100D which is 6mp and has in-body IS. Jeisner has one and likes it a lot.
Canon has IS lenses and Nikon has VR lenses.
Sony has a camera with in-body IS that uses Minolta lenses. That could be an attractive option.

OK. Let's look at the issues:
In body IS
Pentax, Sony

Low high ISO noise
Canon (possibly Sony too)

Stabilised lenses
Nikon, Canon, Fuji (S3, S5)

Focussing
Canon, Pentax - depends on model how good it is.
Olympus, Nikon - usually pretty good.

Manual focussing
Possible with all dSLRs but few have focussing aids.
Independent screens are available but can adversely affect exposure .

My recommendation - try a few cameras before you buy.

I'd look at the Pentax K100D because it takes AA batteries and has in-body IS.
Sony Alpha - only if you already have Minolta lenses. Sony's commitment to dSLRs is not yet fully demonstrated.
Nikon - best focussing of the lot due to the on-body focussing illuminator.
Canon - best image quality of the lot.

Note: Canon's Rebel and Rebel XT had poor focussing compared to other models in the range. Canon also is the only manufacturer to use full-frame (5D, 1D).

Lenses - it depends what you're looking for. Try looking for decent lenses and then getting the camera that takes them.

[Cricketer]

[I]
The recommendation to purchase a suitable "fast glass" lens and then find a camera body to use it with is essentially correct. Fast glass is the range from f2 to F4. Bird photography in poor light or under forest canopy is unforgiving and requires fast 2.8 or f4 lenses, especially if the target is in motion. A range of not less than 300mm, but preferably 400mm or more with a quiet AF mechanism is recommended. They are relatively heavy and costly unless you purchase used which I recommend if your budget is tight. The new digital zooms from Nikon, Canon and Pentax with image stabilization at the above ranges are generally f5.6 or slower at their long end, but are quiet, focus quickly and are lighter than faster prime lenses. Generally speaking, bird photography is very much about technique which improves with experience. Nothing like "being out there" crawling through a marsh with the bugs biting and setting up the tripod to snap the Blue herons nesting, or Osprey diving from trees to catch fish. My current setup for distance shots, ducks, shorebirds and hawks is a Nikon D70 with Nikon 300mm f4 AF ED prime lens and the well respected Kenko Teleplus PRO 300 1.4X teleconverter (effectively 630mm) with only a one f-stop light loss plus a sturdy tripod that goes to ground level when required, and a ball head with a quick release plate. In the woods I use my 180mm f2.8 AF ED prime lens hand held for birds in the undergrowth or foliage with AF turned off and manually focus. I have also used the Nikon 180mm f2.8 and D70 with the Kenko 1.4x which provides a handy 378mm approx. Take your time and ask other experienced bird photographers what lenses they recommend in poor light conditions and try them on your camera at the store. Good luck!