D70s, not sharp enough...

[LR Max]

I recently got a D70s and I can say, it is pretty awesome. Only issue is that my images don't seem sharp enough. I dunno if its the Tamron Lenses that I got with the camera or what. I did read the review here on dcresource and it did say that the D70s aren't sharp enough out of the box.

Example:

http://static.flickr.com/117/295773283_fcecdde72e_o.jpg

focal length: 68mm (102 in 35mm)
f/5.6
ISO 200
Lense: Tamron 28-80mm 3.5-5.6 AF

I really think this image could be sharper. I read the book and I really didn't understand how to make the camera take sharper pictures. What do I need to change in the menu to achieve this? There are like, 6 different options that all have names that don't really describe what they do.

Thanks for helping out this noobie.

[wh0128]

Well in the D50 menu you can change a picture setting to "Sharper" but I don't know if that Sharpens the image. One of the most important things about image sharpness is the glass that the light passes through. I don't know how good of quality your Tamron is, but that might be on reason why the images aren't as sharp as you want them to be.

[cincyimages]

Does sharpness have to do with the lens?

[RichNY]

Are you shooting RAW or JPEG?


I recently got a D70s and I can say, it is pretty awesome. Only issue is that my images don't seem sharp enough. I dunno if its the Tamron Lenses that I got with the camera or what. I did read the review here on dcresource and it did say that the D70s aren't sharp enough out of the box.

Example:

http://static.flickr.com/117/295773283_fcecdde72e_o.jpg

focal length: 68mm (102 in 35mm)
f/5.6
ISO 200
Lense: Tamron 28-80mm 3.5-5.6 AF

I really think this image could be sharper. I read the book and I really didn't understand how to make the camera take sharper pictures. What do I need to change in the menu to achieve this? There are like, 6 different options that all have names that don't really describe what they do.

Thanks for helping out this noobie.

[Esoterra]

1) It very well could be the lens. your lens is an ok lens, but when you zoom in you might loose image sharpness. Test it out... try taking shots at the wide end and telephoto end of your camera and see how they compare.

2) if you use a tripod you will have sharper images.

2a) If you don't like using a tripod, use a faster shutter speed

2b) if a faster shutter speed is not possible, invest in Nikkor VR Lenses

3) in post production use Unsharp Mask (USM) and fiddle around with the Ammount, Halo, and Threshold to a combination that you think works. I always shoot with my D70s at Normal Default settings and then do all my touch up in Nikon Capture. If you don't like doing that, then you shouldnt have bought a DSLR lol.

4) Don't use in-camera sharpening. I have done this with my D70s much to my dismay, as the pictures look very noisy and grainy. Its much easier to add sharpening post processing.

I hope this helps.

[LR Max]

Thanks for the feedback.

The pic above was taken in L FINE.

Up until today, I have been shooting everything on L FINE. But I recently knocked it down to L NORMAL. I haven't noticed any degrading of image quality.

All I gots in terms of programs is Picture Project 1.5...whatever the hell that is. I haven't even cracked it open yet, its still sealed. I've never touched up any of my images, but I guess I need to start.

Thanks for all the tips. Yeah, I kinda wish I had Nikkor lenses but I got two Tamron lenses for a steal.

Lastly, if I increse my apeture, will that increase the sharpness? I read somewhere (I could be wrong, it has happened before) that if I operate the lense in its mid f stop range, it'll naturally be sharper. Any comments on this?

Thanks again.

[jcon]

Shoot with an F stop (Apreture) of around F9, that should produce somewhat sharper images.

For PP, you can use USM, but dont go too crazy because if you use too much, its becomes very noticeable.

Personal suggestion, buy the Nikon 50mm 1.8 lens.

[jcon]

Heres what USM can do....

[LR Max]

Thanks for the help. I'll start looking into PP more and I'll put a better photo program on the list of stuff I need.

The Nikkor 50mm f/1.8 is the next thing I plan on buying. Everyone I know (but nikon and canon peoples) say they are great. I want one for low light conditions but apparently they are awesome all around.

[wh0128]

Yeah definitely try that USM because the image Jcon processed for you looks much better, and sharper, although it is resized.

[K1W1]

I disagree with the advice to turn on the in camera sharpening.
If the camera sharpens the image then you are entirely at the mercy of whatever the camera does and it cannot be undone later on. Sharpening is the most destructive of all post processing actions and it should always be done last.
My suggestion is to shoot in RAW (.NEF) format so no in camera sharpening is applied then play with the images during post processing.
If you do not want to shoot RAW then shoot in jpeg / fine / large with no sharpening and adjust the images to suit later.
The only reason to have any sort of sharpening applied in the camera is if no post processing is ever going to be done, for example you are going to connect the camera directly to a printer or you simply want what are effectively P&S images from a DSLR.
You cannot restore / fix / adjust what the camera does not capture.

Regarding jpeg sizes. From memory a jpeg/large image is about 60% of the file file of a .NEF image and a jpeg/medium is about 30% of .NEF size. Given that .NEF is theoretically all the original data there must be losses involved in compressing the image down to 30% of it's original size. How much is lost or what detail is lost will vary from image to image but would you want to take a risk that vital detail is missing from a special photo that cannot be recreated?

[tcadwall]

Tripods, lenses, in-camera processing... ALL very relevant points. So I concur.

Suggestion for post. I have been using and am very happy with Bibble for my first step (and often last step) in post. The pro version is only $129. Putting it $30 over Nikon Capture - last I checked. During your research of RAW converters make sure you are looking at recent reviews. I found a huge variety of reviews, and prior to the last 6 months, people seemed to lean toward Capture, or Adobe Camera Raw, but the more recent reviews seem to really favor Bibble, as so much power has been added, and the batch processing is quite powerful as well.

You can download a trial copy, and there are some pretty good video tutorials on their site.

I have also read that Nikon Capture is messy with upgrades, leaving old dlls around that interfere after upgrades, so if you install that, and change your mind or upgrade, you might want to uninstall it before going forward.

If you do consider upgrading lenses, you should really ensure that the lens you buy has a purpose. IOW - figure out WHY your current lenses don't meet your needs and what type of shooting you do most, or need to improve. For instance, I love my 18-200mm VRII lens. However, I also recognize that the few sports that I do like to shoot (night racing, hockey) would benefit dramatically if I had a faster lens - and toward the telephoto side overlapping what I already have.

If you haven't already - check out www.bythom.com (http://www.bythom.com) - though he comes across a little Nikon biased, he does have a lot of good information there, as well as camera specific guides, etc.

[eduardofrances]

Optics determine how sharp your photo can be, in your case that lens is know to be soft, in lenses you get what you pay, if you want to see better results you can stop down to f/8 ( or f/11 but no more if you don't want diffraction to soften your image) or getting a better lens, the Nikkor 18-70mm AF-S DX is one heck of a nice lens, very sharp, it is more expensive than you 28-90mm but you will see better images with it.

Best Regards!