A question for F30 owners.

[DarkDTSHD]

I just came across a thread where a F10 owner mentioned how he got inaccurate battery life readings. Eventough his F10 uses a proprietary Li-on battery. I was always under the assumption that this only happened with cameras using NiMH batteries (e.g. Sony DSC-H2/H5) and that lithium batteries were bullet proof. What is your experience with the F30 so far during your first charge? Were the readings spot on till the battery drained?

Here's the thread regarding the user of the F10:

http://www.dcresource.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20984

Also, is there a difference between FuJi's Li-on battery and Sony's "infoLITHIUM"? Besides the branding. :) So far, of the many threads I've read on the T9/T30, there have been no issues with their battery life readouts. Owners always say how accurate their readouts have been.

[sjseto]

When I first got my F30, I charged it for maybe an hour before I started using it (I was really impatient ;) ). I noticed that the battery level indicator had all three bars lit already, which means, according to the manual, "there is ample battery charge." I was a little skeptical of this because the instructions said that it would take about four hours to fully charge the battery for the first time. I used the camera intermittently for about a half hour with no problems.

I have never fully exhausted the battery in either the F30 or the F10 before recharging, so I can't comment on the accuracy of the battery level indicator. But the F30 manual does say that, "depending on the camera mode, the transition from (picture of indicator with 1 bar lit) to (picture of indicator with no bars) may occur more quickly."

Stephanie

[DarkDTSHD]

When I first got my F30, I charged it for maybe an hour before I started using it (I was really impatient ;) ). I noticed that the battery level indicator had all three bars lit already, which means, according to the manual, "there is ample battery charge." I was a little skeptical of this because the instructions said that it would take about four hours to fully charge the battery for the first time. I used the camera intermittently for about a half hour with no problems.

I have never fully exhausted the battery in either the F30 or the F10 before recharging, so I can't comment on the accuracy of the battery level indicator. But the F30 manual does say that, "depending on the camera mode, the transition from (picture of indicator with 1 bar lit) to (picture of indicator with no bars) may occur more quickly."

Stephanie

Hello Stephanie,

Keep me and the others posted. Perhaps you could use the camera till this short 1 hour charge is drained. Charge the battery again for the recommended 4 hours. Then start shooting like mad till the battery drains. Love to know how accurate the battery life indicator on the F30 is. I'm considering it as one of my chioces for my second digital camera. Along with the Sony T9.

Also, can you tell me about the F30's image stablization design/useage? According to pictures, I see that to select Fuji's IS, you have to select it on the mode dial. In doing so is the IS "on" in all shooting modes (e.g. Programmed AE, scene modes)?

Thanks! :)

[Plasma99]

I would also like to know more about the image stabilization mode. I know it isn't true image stabilization, but how well does it work? I currently have an F10, but I'm considering the F30 because of the new stuff that has been added, such as the stabilization and the ISO 3200 mode.

Also, would you say that the video mode is as good and hopefully better than the F10's? I've recorded songs at concerts and the sound quality is amazing in the video, it even picks up the bass.

Also, some questions for sjseto.

What settings would you recommend for my F10 to take pictures in low light, but not get blur and keep the natural light? Here is an example of what I want to not have happen:

http://aycu36.webshots.com/image/715/1158159456617465088_th.jpg (http://allyoucanupload.webshots.com/viewimage?imageID=1158159456617465088)

Here is the same shot with a flash:

http://aycu16.webshots.com/image/2615/1111929263594384760_th.jpg (http://allyoucanupload.webshots.com/viewimage?imageID=1111929263594384760)

I'm happy with most other pics, such as the ones below, but they still seem a bit blurred to me because I can never seem to hold many hands completely still:

http://aycu18.webshots.com/image/2177/1302118506011266342_th.jpg (http://allyoucanupload.webshots.com/viewimage?imageID=1302118506011266342)

http://aycu06.webshots.com/image/405/1409279049070369183_th.jpg (http://allyoucanupload.webshots.com/viewimage?imageID=1409279049070369183)

[DarkDTSHD]

I would also like to know more about the image stabilization mode. I know it isn't true image stabilization, but how well does it work? I currently have an F10, but I'm considering the F30 because of the new stuff that has been added, such as the stabilization and the ISO 3200 mode.

Also, would you say that the video mode is as good and hopefully better than the F10's? I've recorded songs at concerts and the sound quality is amazing in the video, it even picks up the bass.

Also, some questions for sjseto.

What settings would you recommend for my F10 to take pictures in low light, but not get blur and keep the natural light? Here is an example of what I want to not have happen:

http://aycu36.webshots.com/image/715/1158159456617465088_th.jpg (http://allyoucanupload.webshots.com/viewimage?imageID=1158159456617465088)

Here is the same shot with a flash:

http://aycu16.webshots.com/image/2615/1111929263594384760_th.jpg (http://allyoucanupload.webshots.com/viewimage?imageID=1111929263594384760)

I'm happy with most other pics, such as the ones below, but they still seem a bit blurred to me because I can never seem to hold many hands completely still:

http://aycu18.webshots.com/image/2177/1302118506011266342_th.jpg (http://allyoucanupload.webshots.com/viewimage?imageID=1302118506011266342)

http://aycu06.webshots.com/image/405/1409279049070369183_th.jpg (http://allyoucanupload.webshots.com/viewimage?imageID=1409279049070369183)

I heard from Fuji. They told me that the IS is a mode in itself ONLY. Meaning, you can't have IS when using a scene mode or any other circumstance. Which makes it sort of limiting. You should be able to have it active in every shooting mode. Like the IS systems in the Canon and Sony camera's.

Incidentally, I just picked up a new Sony DSC-H1. Last year's model. But brand new. Got the local Sony Store to give me almost a $80.00 discount off their sale price. Plus, I've been told by many H1 owners that they have never had a problem with theirs.

Previously I had a Sony DSC-H5. I had two problems with it. It would suddenly shutdown. Did it 5x within the course of only 40 shots. And when using the supplied Sony NiMH batteries I would get bogus battery life readouts. Upon start up it would say FULL. Within 3 seconds it would say HALF-FULL. So back it went.

My new H1 shouldn't do either. If it does I'm going to be MUCHO pissed!! Then, it's "Goodbye Sony!" and "Hello!! Canon S3 IS". Want the full flexibility of the manual modes, shutter priority and aperture priority modes. For when I'm more experienced. And the 12x optical zoom.

Later guys. I'm unsubscribing from this thread. Good luck all. :)

[guitone]

The fuji stabilization mode only pushes the ISO up,that is it. The F30 has better contrast and is a bit sharper than the F10/11 but not dramatically. I would prefer setting the ISO myself unless in a hurry than using this IS mode as I feel it is more gimmick than anything else, and changing ISO is very easy and fast on the F30. I would say it is a bit different than the F11, not better or worse, just different...they both have pics that look better with one or the other, learning how to use it is going to be important. Some times, turn the LCD to -3 to get an accurate read so you can decide what to do with the EV.

[sjseto]

The fuji stabilization mode only pushes the ISO up,that is it...I would prefer setting the ISO myself unless in a hurry than using this IS mode as I feel it is more gimmick than anything else, and changing ISO is very easy and fast on the F30.

That's right, and Fuji actually calls it the "anti-blur" mode. The manual says, "Use this mode to select a fast shutter speed that reduces camera shake and moving subject blurring." In order to achieve that fast shutter speed without underexposure, the camera increases the ISO. It does have a dedicated position on the mode dial, which means you can't activate it in scene modes. But since all it does is up the ISO, and not shift lens elements like true IS, it isn't necessary to have access to it in the other scene modes.

Incidentally, all of the scene modes except for one will automatically set the ISO to Auto. You cannot set the ISO yourself in any mode excepet for Night. This is a step back from the F10 which did allow you to set the ISO manually in all scene modes (although it only had 5 modes compared to the 15 that are on the F30). It isn't too troublesome for more experienced users who will probably prefer to use shutter and aperture priority modes and exposure compensation to achieve the same effect as the scene modes, but novice users will probably wonder why some of their images don't look quite as "clean" as those from some other cameras, and the auto ISO that has forced upon them will probably be the reason why. I know that the higher ISO's on the F30 produce much better quality images compared to other compact cameras at the same setting, but it would still be nice to have been given that extra bit of control.

I agree that the anti-blur mode is more of a gimmick than anything, and I can't see myself ever using it. I would prefer to set the ISO manually.

The way I see it, Fuji went in two different directions with the F30. They gave more control to advanced users by adding aperture and shutter priority modes, and a separate exposure compensation button, but at the same time they "dumbed down" the scene modes by forcing auto ISO on them.

It's a minor annoyance in an otherwise great little camera.

Stephanie

[sjseto]

I would also like to know more about the image stabilization mode. I know it isn't true image stabilization, but how well does it work? I currently have an F10, but I'm considering the F30 because of the new stuff that has been added, such as the stabilization and the ISO 3200 mode.

Because the anti-blur mode enables faster shutter speeds by upping the ISO, it does work better than true IS for stopping motion of subjects (even people standing still can have slight movements that will cause them to be blurry at, say, 1/8 sec), but not as well if all you're trying to do is take a picture of a completely stationary subject (because higher ISO's introduce noise and degrade sharpness and detail). I think that true IS works better for the latter situation.

Also, would you say that the video mode is as good and hopefully better than the F10's? I've recorded songs at concerts and the sound quality is amazing in the video, it even picks up the bass.

I can't answer that yet because I haven't experimented with the movie mode. Hopefully soon. Or, wait for Jeff's review; he usually includes a sample movie.

Also, some questions for sjseto.

What settings would you recommend for my F10 to take pictures in low light, but not get blur and keep the natural light? Here is an example of what I want to not have happen:

http://aycu36.webshots.com/image/715/1158159456617465088_th.jpg (http://allyoucanupload.webshots.com/viewimage?imageID=1158159456617465088)

Concerts are difficult. Often the lighting is so dim that even ISO 1600 sometimes isn't enough. Try not to be disappointed; the F10 is a great little camera, but it isn't a miracle worker, and it's no SLR - which is the best camera to use in situations like that, but often isn't allowed into concert venues.

I took my F10 to a Coldplay concert in January and since I was sitting so far away from the stage, none of my pictures turned out very well (I did enjoy the movies, though). You have to set the ISO to at least 800 but watch the shutter speed on the LCD when you half-press the shutter button. If it falls to something like 1/30s, then you know that the performers will turn out blurry because they're moving around.

What I tried was to use negative exposure compensation to increase the shutter speed, and wait for moments when the stage lighting was brighter before I took the picture. Because of the spotlight on the performers, I didn't think they would look too underexposed, and at least they wouldn't be too blurry.

http://www.rosecolouredglasses.ca/Pictures/F10_Samples/coldplay_crop.jpg

The above image was taken using that technique (ISO 800 and -1 EV exposure compensation, which resulted in a 1/103 sec shutter speed). I was sitting VERY far away from the stage so the original image was cropped heavily to make this one, and I used some unsharp mask to sharpen things up a bit.

I'm happy with most other pics, such as the ones below, but they still seem a bit blurred to me because I can never seem to hold many hands completely still:

http://aycu18.webshots.com/image/2177/1302118506011266342_th.jpg (http://allyoucanupload.webshots.com/viewimage?imageID=1302118506011266342)

http://aycu06.webshots.com/image/405/1409279049070369183_th.jpg (http://allyoucanupload.webshots.com/viewimage?imageID=1409279049070369183)

I think that your photos turned out quite well, actually. They don't seem blurry, at least not at those sizes. Sometimes I find myself torn between using ISO 1600 (which I don't use unless I absolutely have to) and using ISO 800 and possibly getting a blurred image. If I choose the latter, I try to find something to brace the camera against, or lean my elbows on a table, or brace my arms against a wall.

If there's nothing available, then you have to rely on your hand-holding technique. Digital cameras have encouraged bad technique because most people rely on the LCD to compose the shot (and on cameras lacking an optical viewfinder, you have no choice), which causes them to hold the camera out away from their body, which is unstable. Try to hold the camera as close to your body as you can, with your elbows tucked in and close to your sides, and press the shutter button as you exhale. Some people find that they can hold the camera steadier in portrait orientation, so you might want to try that. Also, using the 2-second self-timer might help, so the camera doesn't move as you're pressing the shutter button.

Stephanie

[Plasma99]

Thanks for the reply Stephanie. After reading a lot about it and with my experience of owning an F10 I went ahead and bought an F30 yesterday. I ordered from Amazon.com because they have it for $349 with a $50 rebate. Luckily I can still get about $200 for my F10 on Ebay, so the upgrade will only set me back about $100. I can't wait to try out my new camera!