Canon S2 Action/General Questions.....

[phoenix708]

Hey all,
Newbie...Yes. I recently upgraded from a Kodak P&S 3 meg 2x zoom. I researched the various cameras and opted for the Canon. I love the camera. The Auto works great for general shooting but I got this camera for sports which both my boys are into (Soccer mainly). I FINALLY figured out that you can't adjust shutter speed in auto mode (No laughing please...the manual is sparse on that).
Anyway, after searching around here and other places I started gathering some info on my dilemna (Blurred action shots). I tried raising the ISO to 400 and a 1/1000 shutter speed which stopped the action but the photos were grainy. From what I have read this is an inherint problem. I just took some photos at ISO 50,100, and 200 with the shutter at 1/500 and 1/1000 and this seemed to correct the problem. Unfortunately it was overcast so I don't know about sunny days. I know you have answered these questions over, and over but.... Could you give me some pointers as to ISO speed (Higher is grainier ?), Shutter speed (recommended for "Stop action"), Fstop, etc...
I am using Tv mode. I have seen where some people say to use the Av mode instead to give aperature priority. What is a starting point for Sunny days/cloudy days. Also, is there a web site or book you recommend to help me?


Photos follow........keep in mind this is an overcast day in N.C. USA........

Also,......Pardon the grass or lack there of....hehehe

ISO 50 Av 3.5 Tv 1/250
http://www.gladiatorssoccer.com/pics_help/Img_0435.jpg

ISO 100 Av 4.0 Tv 1/250
http://www.gladiatorssoccer.com/pics_help/Img_0436.jpg

ISO 100 Av 3.2 Tv 1/500
http://www.gladiatorssoccer.com/pics_help/Img_0438.jpg

ISO 200 Av 3.2 Tv 1/1000
http://www.gladiatorssoccer.com/pics_help/Img_0439.jpg

ISO 200 Av 4.5 Tv 1/500
http://www.gladiatorssoccer.com/pics_help/Img_0440.jpg

Any help is GREATLY appreciated!

[tranor]

Hi there i too have an S2IS and find the ISO over 100 too grainy to use without having to fix in photoshop or neatimage. The camera is fantastic for most things but can struggle indoors in bad light and a little with some action shots.
But in saying that try shooting in TV or AV with safety shift set to on and if using zoom without tripod turn on IS mode and you should have no problem capturing a soccer ball in flight.Use shutter speeds over 1/125 and see how ya go with iso at 50.
Heres some sites i got from the good people here that i find useful and have fun with your new camera.(good to see active children are still around:) )

http://web.canon.jp/Imaging/pss2is/101-e.html
http://www.morguefile.com/archive/classroom.php
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials.htm

[phoenix708]

Thanks Tranor,
I am still messing with it . Unfortunately, you can't really see your results until you download them, the lcd doesn't show the flaws. I tried again tonight at the scrimmage but my wife took the pics since I had to coach. Some good....some bad. That is to be expected. I used ISO 100 and 1/500 shutter. I am still trying to get this worked out. Unfortunately, I have to coach and don't have the time to play with the camera. This Friday we have a scrimmage and I already talked with the other coaches and will hopefully get some time to play with it. Is there a "rule of thumb" for where you want your f-stop to be? I am using Tv mode so the camera should set that. I noticed the F-stop will go to red which is borderline. You can see a picture preview when you half depress the shutter button with the lcd but I don't see it when using the viewfinder. Oh, I know how to set the safety shift on or off but what are the pros/cons of on/off? Thanks again for the input.....

Steve

[tranor]

When enabled, safety shift automatically adjusts exposure settings in the Av or Tv mode if they do not suit current exposure settings you made when the shutter button is pressed half down.This is fine unless of course you wanted a certain effect.
Try to use the histogram to see the overexposed areas of the pic you have just taken, i set the preveiw to 2 secs so it does'nt stop me taking another picture without a big wait with the attemp of correcting the over exposed parts.
Those websites are very helpful i liked cambride as it gave examples and answers relevant to all cameras and then ya gotta figure out your cameras limits and benefits.
I am a newbie too so i am sure some of the experienced guy's around will help out with info and put me straight if i give bad advice;) this is quite likely:D i

[BowerR64]

The first one you took looks the best. If i were you ide stick with the first 2-3 settings. The 100 ISO image looks a little washed out (over exposed) but that can be adjusted. I would just play around with those settings you have they seem to come out ok.

If you notice you can get almost the same shots with different settings. The 50 ISO needs a slower shutter and larger appature where the 100 needs faster shutter and smaller app but the images are very simmilar.

Are you using the "Vivad" setting in the effects section? i always leave that on it seems to bring out the colors a little better or somthign i just like it.

Digital is fun just shoot everything you see. I always expect 1-2 shots out of 30 or so i take then ditch the rest.

I agree the higher ISOs are grainy but if you shoot in the large quality size then shring the image down where its viewable on your screen (600X800) or so it doesnt look that bad. 200 is probobly the most i ever use. When i use 200 im planning to shrink the image down. You only really need it in low light IMO

I think i prefer 50-100 ISO, largest app you can use and the fastest shutter speed. I shot some stuff yesturday and it seems i started with the max shutter speed then adjusted everything else to fit it. I also tried a slow shutter with a small app and 100 ISO. I should of tried 50 ISO but i was in a hurry.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y191/BowerR64/Camera/Foutain1.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y191/BowerR64/Camera/foutain2.jpg

[phoenix708]

I finally had a chance to play with the safety shift. It looks like it overides all your settings in the Tv mode. I set the shutter speed to 1/500 and turned the safety shift on. When I depressed the shutter half way it reset everything so as to get a properly exposed setting. In my case I am trying to get soccer action shots. It dropped my shutter speed back to I think it was 1/60 at ISO 100. That wont work.
Next question is I have the settings for sunny figured out. But, if I want to shoot under cloudy conditions how do you adjust? I am using ISO 100 with a 1/500 shutter. When it is cloudy that wont work. Do I raise my ISO? Then it gets grainy/noisy. How do you compensate to KEEP a shutter speed that will stop action?

Thanks again.................Steve

[dubsplayer]

I use my camera almost exclusively for action shots - taking pictures of professional tennis players. I always shoot in P Mode and with an ISO of 100. The only other thing I do is set it for sunny, cloudy, etc...depending on the conditions. At night (no flashes allowed at matches) I bumped the ISO up to 400, but admittedly they don't come out that great.

Here are some pictures I took last week at the tourney in Miami.

The ones that look far away were taken from the very top of a 10,000 seat stadium using 12x zoom.

[cspratt]

#5 is a good shot.

[BowerR64]

I like #6, the only problem is you used a program that cut out the info. If you use the canon zoombrowser to crop and resize it keeps the data connected to the image (ISO speed, shutter speed, Fstop) and adobe but any other image program removes the tags. If you cut and paste i think it removes the tags also.

[dubsplayer]

I like #6, the only problem is you used a program that cut out the info. If you use the canon zoombrowser to crop and resize it keeps the data connected to the image (ISO speed, shutter speed, Fstop) and adobe but any other image program removes the tags. If you cut and paste i think it removes the tags also.

I don't do any of that. I come home with over 400 shots or more - depending how many days I'm there - and all I do is upload them on to snapfish. I don't resize, crop, or anything else. Too much of a bother (and I don't care that much) as I only take them for me and my tennis nut friends to see.)

[BowerR64]

oh, well then its snapfish that resizes them. I think the snapfish has a max image size and it resizes it if its over. For me i like to see the info because it helps me learn what is used to get the image. You right click the image once its saved, then it displays the info. Its really handy specialy when there is some neat tricks involved. Since we are talking about action shots and what settings to use this is the time when its good. Mine were resized also thats why i put them on the image. I dont know if mine are right though they just seem to have the right exposure and the telephoto lens i got for $5. i wanted to see how it looks zoomed.

I think the canon lens is probobly better but its also $100. and made of plastic :confused:

[phoenix708]

I finally had a chance to play with the safety shift. It looks like it overides all your settings in the Tv mode. I set the shutter speed to 1/500 and turned the safety shift on. When I depressed the shutter half way it reset everything so as to get a properly exposed setting. In my case I am trying to get soccer action shots. It dropped my shutter speed back to I think it was 1/60 at ISO 100. That wont work.
Next question is I have the settings for sunny figured out. But, if I want to shoot under cloudy conditions how do you adjust? I am using ISO 100 with a 1/500 shutter. When it is cloudy that wont work. Do I raise my ISO? Then it gets grainy/noisy. How do you compensate to KEEP a shutter speed that will stop action?

Thanks again.................Steve

Sorry, love the tennis shots...stop action. I am looking for the same quality in soccer....please see quote above....not trying to be rude........

Steve

[dubsplayer]

Sorry, love the tennis shots...stop action. I am looking for the same quality in soccer....please see quote above....not trying to be rude........

Steve

I'm not quite sure if this is what you are asking for but I'll give it a go. When in a shooting mode, press the function button and on the LCD there will appear all the different functions. Light is the second one from the top. You can choose from daylight, cloudy, Tungsten, Florescent, etc... So if it's a cloudy day that is all I do - switch it from daylight to cloudy.

I also never use a tripod when I'm shooting (and I doubt you'll be schleping one to the soccer field) so make sure you keep your hand/camera as steady as possible. All my blurry out of focus shots are always when I'm taking pics of some very fit & handsome tennis player, but I'm working hard to control my hand shakes.:rolleyes:

I also should mention again that I only shoot in P Mode. My camera guy, at small strictly camera shop where I bought it, recommended P Mode as the best for action shots. I tried, before I got that info, using TV and AV modes and found that the results were not that good - so I took the camera back to the store and he said, "just put it in P Mode and I think you'll like the results." And he was right. Plus, it is no brainer. I don't have to think about anything but focusing & clicking.

[swgod98]

please see quote above....not trying to be rude........

Steve, overcast days are very difficult for any PnS camera. Without being able to increase the ISO means you have very few options when the camera is not getting enough light. If you can't, or are unwilling to increase the ISO further, you will have to accept that your camera might not be able to get the shot. I have taken many soccer shots in the past with a few different camera's. Mainly my S2 IS. On bright, sunny days, I never have a problem stopping action at ISO 50. You shouldn't either.

But, on overcast days, you have to make sure your aperture is set to the smallest value possible. I like to use Av mode and set the aperture to 2.7. This ensures I am using the largest aperture (most light) no matter what my zoom is. I don't really care for safety shift, because it just messes me up. If my settings are wrong, I like to know. One can't learn when the camera is doing things for you.

Overcast days will pretty much require you to use ISO 100 or 200. You might even have to go to 400 if it's bad enough (and you still want to stop the action).

Good luck.