Image stabilization at 2.8 necessary?

[GrimJeeper]

I'm planning to use a monopod to shoot indoor sports. I'm eying a couple of 200 mm 2.8 lenses, one without image stabilization and one with. The one with image stabilization is more than twice the price of the one without. If I'm using a monopod, do I need the image stabilization at 150-200 mm? Please tell me no! :D

[cdifoto]

Image stabilization has to do with shutter speeds and hand/camera shake. It has absolutely nothing to do with aperture apart from the triad of ISO-Shutter-Aperture in determining exposure.

On a monopod you won't have the effects of camera shake and so IS isn't necessary. Shooting action (ie sports) requires faster shutter speeds anyway, so again camera shake isn't much an issue, if at all.

IS is more for static non-moving objects and shooting slow shutter speeds handheld than anything else.


That said...you may find f/2.8 isn't fast enough - depending how well lit those indoor *arenas* are that you're shooting in. Typically f/1.8 or f/2.0 is needed to get proper shutter speeds indoors.

[Chucko]

I agree that IS (VR, whatever the mfr. calls it) is not terribly useful for indoor sports, because you'll want a high enough shutter speed to stop motion anyway, and the monopod will get rid of most of the camera shake.

A 200/2.8 should be fast enough. If it's not, you're looking at spending several kilobucks on faster glass. I'd experiment with high ISO settings first. If you can get your shutter speeds to at least 1/500 and faster with acceptable noise levels, you should be OK.

[GrimJeeper]

I went all the way to ISO 1600 with the 55-200mm f/4-5.6G ED AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor Lens (D50 kit lens combo) with unsatisfactory results over 100 mm. Between 55 and 90 mm, I had very little blur with hands and feet at the gymnastics state championships. Over 100 mm (approaching f/5) and the blur became a nuisance. I assumed that the 2.8 would work and REALLY didn't want to spend the extra $800 or so on the IS version unnecessarily.

Any suggestions for a vendor that will let me send it back if it turns out that it's not fast enough? I was probably going to purchase from Buydig.com. I know that's a question for a different thread, and I'll post it there as well if I don't get any suggestions. Thanks!

[Rex914]

If you're planning to try before you commit, it might be better to use a local store instead. Most online stores will charge a restocking free unless you try and make up an excuse for the return, and even then, you may only be able to get an exchange instead.

[ReF]

just repeating what i've read, but it seems that the 200 f2 is the ideal kind of lens for indoor gymnastics. nikon's also got a 135 f2 that some use for indoor sports, so you might want to see if that's long enough.

you can always put a 1.4x TC on that 135 and you'll still have f2.8. i really don't think VR is neccessary for this type of application, especially given the focal length and the fact that you will be using a monopod. the most important factor here is shutter speed.

if you want something more practical (and cheaper) than a 135 f2 + 1.4x TC then the 80-200 f2.8 should gain you a ton of SS over that f5/f5.6

[Vich]

You need about 1/500th to stop moderate action, maybe 1/250th will be enough if they aren't moving much, 1/1000th would be better to catch severe action - unless you are looking for some hand blur to accentuate the motion, just so the faces and arm muscles are clear.

I think, at 200mm, 1/250th could have camera shake problems but a monopod should aleviate that.

If you can't get those shutter speeds, the only clear shots you get may be victory "HuuAhhh's" or some slow motion moments where they stay relatively still.

IS would probably relieve the need for the Monopod, but of course does nothing for you if f2.8 + ISO 800 (or, uck, 1600) doesn't cut it.

Another thing about IS. If it doesn't have a "Panning mode", where horizontal movement correction is suppressed, then IS can actually mess up your pan shots as it attempts correction.

Getting close up and using flash is your best bet. Then you can use a lot shorter lens and fast is a lot cheaper the closer you get to 50mm.

[wxcloud9xw]

Both Nikon with its VR and Canon and it's IS recommend turning them off when on a tripod or stationary object. Oddly enough I've had sharper images with VR turned off on a tripod than with it on. Don't know why.

[cdifoto]

Both Nikon with its VR and Canon and it's IS recommend turning them off when on a tripod or stationary object. Oddly enough I've had sharper images with VR turned off on a tripod than with it on. Don't know why.

Probably because you're already on a steady surface...

...my understanding is IS always moves...because nobody is 100% perfectly still...so on a tripod the module is still trying to move?

(Just a guess)

[wxcloud9xw]

I guess so. I'm more of a tripod person myself, because I get obessed with sharpness.

[coldrain]

That IS or VR gets worse pictures on a tripod has to do with a strange feed back loop effect. I don't know exactly how that works but it is like microphone feed back, where noise is created where there actually was none.

[ReF]

some of the better stabilized lenses actually can be used with a tripod and stabilizer on. the older or lower tech stabilizer need to be turned off when used a steady surface with slow shutter speeds.