Questions about FZ5 (and FZ20)

[uffesteenberg]

Just sold my old Nikon F70 and I will buy a new digital super-zoom camera very soon...

Looked around (Canon Powershot S2 IS, Konica Minolta Dimage z5 and Sony Cybershot DSC H1 as well) but from reading a LOT of reviews and threads I finally decided for Panasonic Lumix FZ5 or maybe FZ20 (the FZ30 is still too expensive in Denmark)

Just a few questions:

The "simple mode" on the Panasonic cameras (the "heart" symbol) is that 100% fully automatic? You see, my girlfriend will use the camera too, and doesn't know anything about settings!! So we need a fool proof "turn on and shoot"-mode.. does this exist on both FZ5 and FZ20?

I kind of like the size of the FZ20.. I imagine it feels better in your hands - but not so easy to carry around I guess... how about the FZ5? Isn't a bit TOO small to handle?

How about filters? I used a polarizing-filter on my old SLR and loved it!! Can I use filters on on the FZ5/FZ20? If so, what accesories are needed? Or can polarizing-effect (when shooting clouds et cetera) be added with software? A camera shop assistant said polarizing filters on digital cameras didn´t have as much effect as on SLRs..

FZ5 and FZ20 has TIFF (not RAW).. is that a disadvantage?


More questions to come...is so confusing keping track of alle the details and reviews to consider!!

Any comment warmly welcome :-)

[timk99]

The simple mode is pretty much a point and shoot mode with a very limited number of menu items which you can change if you want.

Simple Mode is as good as useless in low light situations though in my opinion.

FZ5 is not too small to handle to me and I prefer the lighter weight of it.

I think there are a limited number of filters that will fit the FZ5 but you can only use one at a time.

TIFF and RAW are the same thing as far as I know. TIFF is an uncompressed file format.

Personally I'd think twice about getting a Panasonic - abysmal noise problems in low light. My 4 year old point and shoot Digital Ixus beats it comfortably.

Mine is most likely being returned.

[Dean Forbes]

I've used an FZ20 for almost a year and like it very much. I prefer the larger size cameras so the 20 works well for me. It feels more like a regular SLR.

The "P" mode on the dial, at least in US models, is the program mode and the camera will set the aperture and shutter speed for you. This is the "point and shoot mode." It works fine for these situations.

Unless you need RAW because you like to do a lot of post processing of your shots, then don't worry about it. JPEG works fine for posting images to the Web and for most prints. TIFF and RAW will use up space on your memory card fast because the files are so large.

I use a Hoya polarizer on my FZ20 in some situations. It does seem to me that it has less effect on the image than when I've used one on my film SLR, which I can't explain.

If you want a superzoom digital camera, the FZ series is about the best there is.

[emalvick]

I'll take your questions one at a time as best I can...

1. Simple Mode: The heart symbol on the FZ5 and the P on the FZ20 are the same point and shoot mode, so to speak. They will serve the purpose you are asking for, and they will do it decently. I find I use it most of the time. Only when I am looking for a specific effect or a shot isn't coming out quite right do I use one of the other modes.

As for the low light situations you'll often see people talk about. I rarely have the problem, but then I have a 4MP camera (FZ15), which doesn't give much noise compared to the 5MP camera. You also have to realize (as Genece will probably tell you) that noise often looks worse on a monitor when viewed at 100% (which will be bigger than your monitor) than it will in print form.

2. Size: That is truly a matter of opinion. Heck, you may like the FZ20 and your girlfriend may like the FZ5. I suggest you try to get your hands on one of each and feel them out yourself.

3. Polarizers: I know you can add polarizers to the FZ20 (and FZ15), and I am fairly certain you can on the FZ5. There you have to be careful of the thread size. Additionally, if you read on some of the stickies on this forum, you'll see that on the FZ20, the adapter that lets you add the filter puts the filter too far from the lens. So, in an FZ20, you'll probably want to buy a different adapter. This will also let you use a smaller polarizer that is cheaper.

Now, if you are able to buy standard polarizers of the right size for the camera, I believe stacking should be no problem as each filter stacks on top of the previous. On my FZ15, I use a UV filter and a Polarizer. I also find the polarizer works quite nicely. You cannot easily mimic a polarizer with software, especially the glare reducing features.

4. Finally File Format: RAW is only useful if you want to have to process each and every photo you take in that format. I think it is useful for people who are more professional. Heck if one wanted RAW format, they would probably want a DSLR too. Tiff is a decent alternative to RAW, although as has been mentioned, JPG on these cameras is probably adequate for most purposes and will use a lot less space.

Good luck with your search.

Erik

[genece]

It seems to be the opinion that all filters have less effect on digital cameras than on film cameras and even less so on non DSLR type cameras.
UV and haze filters have little to no effect on a digital camera.

But it seems to get the most from a polarizer you need to use manual mode.
But I think it helps enough in program mode, to can give a large benefit when editing.

I am sure that you understand the metering needs to be locked to adjust the effect of the polarizer.



I've used an FZ20 for almost a year and like it very much. I prefer the larger size cameras so the 20 works well for me. It feels more like a regular SLR.

The "P" mode on the dial, at least in US models, is the program mode and the camera will set the aperture and shutter speed for you. This is the "point and shoot mode." It works fine for these situations.

Unless you need RAW because you like to do a lot of post processing of your shots, then don't worry about it. JPEG works fine for posting images to the Web and for most prints. TIFF and RAW will use up space on your memory card fast because the files are so large.

I use a Hoya polarizer on my FZ20 in some situations. It does seem to me that it has less effect on the image than when I've used one on my film SLR, which I can't explain.

If you want a superzoom digital camera, the FZ series is about the best there is.

[Mike63]

Hi, All
I just wanted to add my 2 cents about polarizing filters. I have a Kenko circular PL filter and I like the results that I get, however it does have one drawback that I have never seen mentioned on this forum. You have to turn the filter to achieve the best effect, in essence find the sweet spot, this adds delay in taking your photo. I had seen a post where someone could see no effect at 12:00, 3:00, 6:00, and 9:00 rotation of the lens, The sweet spot is a very narrow band that changes with each different angle of reflection, it takes a few seconds to find it rotating the lens around. I find myself leaving it on all day if there is plenty of light available, it makes the colors brighter. I have not tried a linear PL so I cannot input on them.

[shu246]

i am quite happy with the FZ20. We use it mostly for subjects for the wife's art work, and archival/print photographs of the finished paintings.
http://home.rgv.rr.com/sjdc/

RAW would be nice, but TIF is quite satisfactory for the post-processing we do. of course JPG for ordinary pictures.

we keep a pemaraal adapter and plain glass/uv filter on the front most times. in the studio where dust is not a problem the adapter comes off. for some outside shots a polarizer and hood replace the uv filter.

in the studio i use TIF, and white balance tuned to the studio lighting. when the wife (a non-techie) wants to borrow the camera (she has her own fuji e550 but often seems to have left it somewhere) i
..check/set the first page of the menu (white balance, ISO, image size, storage format);
..check/set the rotary knob at 'P';
..check/set the focus switch on auto.

[Tjalal]

Goto this site. it clearly states that using Linear polarizers wonder help with Digital cameras, user circular!!!
http://www.camerafilters.com

Lastly, everyone says be careful about buying filters for FZ5. can anyone give exact names of a few that fit on FZ5. Please also write any problems in putting them on etc. This way I can search the internet and get the right one!
thanks for the help. :p

[Tjalal]

sorry for bad english. new external keyboard :(

I meant that you cannot use Linear, use Circular

[genece]

Since you believe everything you read ...read this and bear in mind the the FZ cameras do not use split beam metering.


http://www.geocities.com/cokinfiltersystem/polarizer.htm







sorry for bad english. new external keyboard :(

I meant that you cannot use Linear, use Circular

[emalvick]

Goto this site. it clearly states that using Linear polarizers wonder help with Digital cameras, user circular!!!
http://www.camerafilters.com

Lastly, everyone says be careful about buying filters for FZ5. can anyone give exact names of a few that fit on FZ5. Please also write any problems in putting them on etc. This way I can search the internet and get the right one!
thanks for the help. :p

Linear and Circular both work with the Pany cameras, at least with the FZ15 and 20 they do. The linear will actually give you a bit more control as the "sweet" spot someone else referred to is a bit smaller with a circular polarizer. As many will suggest, a linear polarizer is better because it is cheaper, and it gives you better control.

However, I use a circular polarizer because that is what I was given, and having a linear before, I find the ultimate results to be about the same.

Erik