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Based on an article from 
Point. Shoot. Share. That instant
gratification is one of digital cameras' greatest
appeals. In less time than it takes to get a roll
of film developed
at the
store, you can hook a camera up to your Mac or PC, perfect
your pictures with Adobe Photoshop or Photoshop Elements,
organize them with something like Apple
iPhoto, and e-mail the best ones off to clients or friends.
And,
of course,
digital cameras also let you review your photos before
you even get to the computer – so if a shot doesn't
work out, you can try it until it does. And you can forget
the pixilated pictures of yesteryear. Today's cameras
boast quality good enough to make even pros forgo film
altogether.
Whether you want to share digital
images with far-flung family or create high-quality
professional prints, there's
a digital camera for you. But with cameras ranging in
price from $150 to over $5000, which one is right for
your needs?
Digital Camera Basics
Digital
cameras come in many shapes and sizes—from
light ones that fit in your pocket to others that require
some muscle to move around. In lieu of film, most use
a CCD (charge-coupled device) to capture
image data. The CCD is one of the keys to image quality—the
higher the number of pixels, the higher the resolution.
In other words, the more pixels you have, the bigger
you'll be able to print your photos without them
breaking up into blocky blurs.
Resolution is usually referred
to in megapixels, or millions of pixels. A few years
ago, $1,000 would
buy you a state
of the art one-megapixel camera, now you can buy an eight
megapixel camera for that price. Top of the line cameras
offer
six megapixels. How
many pixels you need—and can afford—will
be one of your biggest decisions when choosing a camera.
Some
other cameras (typically digital SLRs) use another
technology known as CMOS or complementary metal oxide
semiconductor sensors.
In the
past, Then there's
the Foveon X3 sensor, which is currently only found in
two Sigma digital SLRs and one upcoming Polaroid consumer-level
camera. The X3 sensor is a triple layered CMOS sensor
(one layer
per primary color) that produces
incredibly sharp images, equivalent to over 9 megapixels.
After images are captured,
they're saved to some
type of removable media, such as a tiny Secure Digital
card or, in rare cases, a mini CD-R disc. The higher
quality your
photos, the more room they'll take up, so you may
be swapping these cards and discs out regularly. Luckily,
you can review the images on the camera's LCD panel
and delete the ones you don't like right away.
To get the images onto your computer,
all of cameras offer a USB connection. A few of the
higher-end cameras
use
FireWire instead, which is dramatically faster than USB
(unless its USB 2.0 which is still an uncommon feature).
Once they're
on your computer, you can use software like Apple's
iPhoto or
Adobe's Photoshop
Elements to print, share, and organize
your photos.
Choosing the Best Camera
As you start your search, first think about what camera
you use the most. If you take a SLR (single-lens reflex)
camera with you everywhere, you might require the control
a large, full-featured digital camera offers. If you
favor your tiny point-and-shoot camera, chances are you'll
quickly grow tired of a large digital camera's
heft and complexity. Whatever camera you choose, buy
one that is appropriate for your needs, and not something
that just sounds good in the brochure. It's like
buying a Ferrari and driving the speed limit.
Size Matters
The digital cameras on this site
range in weight from 100 grams (3.5 ounces) for an
ultra-compact to 595 grams (1.3 pounds) for a typical
D-SLR body to a whopping 1.2 kg (2.7 pounds) for a
full-size professional D-SLR body. The smallest cameras
can be stuffed into your tiniest pocket, with the largest
ones requiring
a camera
bag to carry them around.
In general, more weight means more
features. The smallest cameras usually have a 2X or
3X lens and limited (if
any) manual controls. A few of them have a fixed focal
length and only digital zoom. On the other hand, the
largest cameras most resemble the SLR-style film camera
that professionals and serious hobbyists use. These
offer full manual controls, and support for add-on
flashes
and—in the case of digital SLRs — add-on
lenses.
Pixels Galore
Although they certainly get
the most attention, more isn't always
better when it comes to pixels. Many people end up
buying way more than
they need. For instance, while an eight megapixel camera
sounds cool, it's overkill for almost everyone.
Match your camera to your needs.
If your main task will be putting photos on the eBay,
or making 4x6-inch
prints,
a two megapixel camera is probably fine. If you're
printing 5x7 prints, move up to a three megapixel. If
you want to make 8x10 and larger prints, you're
going to want at least a four megapixel camera. The
only people who really need five or more megapixel
cameras
are those making enormous prints, or professional photographers.
Why practice restraint? The
more pixels your camera has, the more expensive it
will be. Its files will
be considerably
larger (a 2MP image will be about 800KB, while a 5MP
image will be around 1.5MB), and will take up more
space on your hard drive and removable media cards
(which means
you'll either have to carry more cards, buy higher
capacity (read: more expensive), or take fewer pictures).
Give yourself some latitude, however.
For example, even if you're only going to make
4x6 prints, you might want a three-megapixel camera
to allow for cropping. Photographers routinely take
wide
shots of their subjects to avoid slicing off an arm,
foot, or forehead—then they crop away all but
the most essential elements and enlarge what's
left. If you start with a two-megapixel image, you
can't
spare many pixels without compromising image quality;
with three or four million pixels, you can. Extra pixels
likewise afford you more freedom to correct colors,
retouch blemishes, and straighten crooked photos.
One tip: when you're checking
specs, watch out for cameras that use interpolation
to boost their pixel counts. Interpolation is a process
in which the camera digitally enlarges a lower resolution
photo by guessing, or interpolating, what the pixels
would look like at a higher resolution and then adding
them. The result is noise and artifacts in your photos.
Make sure the resolution on the box is the native CCD
resolution without interpolation. This is generally
mentioned
right away on most cameras. Also, keep an eye out for
an "image enlargement" feature, which is
probably the same thing.
Zoom and Focal Length
Another thing to think about
is how much zoom you need. Camera zoom ratios are typically
advertised in "X's". That's just
shows the ratio of the focal length. For example, a 35-105
mm lens works out to 3X. The larger the focal length,
the larger the "X".
A camera with a fixed focal length lens (no optical
zoom) will likely have faster startup time, and faster
shooting
speeds (since it does not need to focus the lens).
Most of these cameras will have a digital zoom feature
to
make up for their lack of flexibility. However, digital
zoom works by blowing up the center area of the field,
which means your camera makes a larger image with the
small amount of data. Picture quality suffers as a
result.
A camera with a 3X optical
zoom lens works very well for most purposes. Generally,
these cameras will have
a focal length of 35-105 mm (in 35mm terms). In reality,
the focal length is much smaller (e.g. 7.3 - 21.9 mm),
as digital camera sensors are much smaller than film.
I'm
using the 35mm equivalent since it's more familiar.
If you're into wildlife or
sports photography, consider a camera with a longer
lens to catch the action
far away: there are cameras with 5X, 6X, 8X, 10X,
and even 12X optical zooms. Be forewarned that most
of these lenses do not have an image stabilization
feature
to
lessen
the effects of "camera shake." In other
words, you're going to need a very steady
hand or a tripod when you're using the camera
at maximum telephoto. More and more cameras are offering
image stabilization which helps reduce -- but not eliminate
-- the camera shake issue. One way to ensure a sharp
image is to boost the ISO sensitivity (if
your
camera lets you set it), but the image will have more "noise" than
with lower ISO settings.
The maximum aperture range is also
important, especially if you plan on taking shots where
using the fastest shutter speed possible is desirable
(like for sports or low light photography). The maximum
aperture is the lowest F-number the camera can
reach, which is a measure of how large the iris can
open.
That may seem contradictory but it's been around since
the beginning of photography. The lower the F-number,
the more light the camera can let in. The more light,
the faster the shutter speed you could use. Typically
the maximum aperture varies depending on the focal
length. For example, it could be F2.8 at wide-angle
and F5.2 at telephoto. A small group of cameras (most
notably the Panasonic FZ-series) have the same maximum
aperture regardless of the focal length, thus making
it ideal for low light and action shooting. If you
do a lot of shooting in those situations, you'll want
something like F2.0 - F2.5 rather than F3.2 - F5.2.
Manual Controls
While point-and-shoot cameras
do the job most of the time, there are occasions
where the
camera's
brain just can't take a good picture. In those
situations, manual controls help you override the default
settings and take a well-exposed picture.
Lower cost digital cameras
will usually be point-and-shoot. Aside from exposure
compensation (which helps brighten
or darken the photo), you typically won't find
any manual controls. More expensive cameras may offer
control
over shutter speed, aperture, white balance, color,
and focus. The
first two allow you to take lower light shots, as well
as being creative with depth of field, like when you
want the subject to be in focus, with a blurry background.
Manual color control lets you adjust things like saturation
and contrast. Manual white balance is very handy when
the preset settings
just
don't
work in certain lighting conditions. You can shoot
a white or gray card which becomes the
correct
"white"
for
the camera. Manual focus will let the photographer
get a shot in focus that the camera can't do
automatically. For example, when the light levels are
too low to focus
correctly, you can set it yourself.
Movies
This feature is pretty
much a gimmick,
but it is an easy way to take short clips without
investing in a camcorder.
Some cameras limit your recording
time to anywhere between 30 seconds and 10 minutes.
Newer models will let you record until your memory
card or
disc
is full,
which
results
in longer movies (up to an hour in some cases).
Movies are usually recorded
at a resolution of 320 x 240, and are saved in AVI,
MPEG, or QuickTime format. Cameras with "high end"
movie modes usually record at 640 x 480, a few at 30
frames/second. Be warned that these cameras often require
more expensive "high speed" memory cards. Some cameras
record sound with movies, and others don't.
Also, pay close attention to whether or not a camera
can
use the zoom lens during filming. As a general rule,
if a
camera records sound, you probably can't use
the zoom.
Memory and Storage Formats
All cameras provide expandable
memory of some sort, which is critical for the photographer
on the go. If you're memory card fills up, you
just pop in another and you're ready to keep
shooting. An increasing number of cameras also have
a small amount of built-in memory instead of bundling
a memory card with the camera.
In the early days of digital
photography, cameras used either SmartMedia or CompactFlash
cards. Today, you'll
see everything from CDs to Secure Digital—the
small cards used in Palm devices, some cell phones,
and all
non-Sony digital camcorders. More than likely, the
card included with your camera will be too low in capacity,
so you'll
probably want to buy a larger card right away. A 256MB
card will set you back about $40.
SmartMedia cards have gone the way
of the Dodo bird, having been replaced by the new xD
Picture card format. xD cards are small, limited in
capacity to 512MB, and tend to be more expensive than
other cards (save Memory Stick). Speaking of Memory
Stick, Sony's proprietary memory cards have topped
out at 256MB (well, 128MB x 2), so Sony came up with
two new formats: Memory Stick Pro and Memory Stick
Duo. The MS Pro cards look just like regular Memory
Sticks except for an increase in speed and capacity
(up to 1GB). They do not work in older cameras. Memory
Stick Duo cards are small cards that work in a select
few Sony devices. They top out at 512MB.
Secure Digital cards are fast becoming
the tiny memory card of choice. They're used in PDAs,
cameras, camcorders, voice recorders, and more. They
are available in capacities as large as 1GB. A similar
card, known as the MultiMediaCard (MMC) usually works
in cameras that support SD, but they're slower and
lower capacity, and thus not recommend.
CompactFlash is the highest
capacity memory card and still the most popular.
You can buy CompactFlash cards in
excess of 4GB (though these cost a small fortune).
There are two types of CompactFlash
cards: Type I and Type II. Type I cards are the standard-sized,
original CompactFlash cards – they come as large
as 2GB. Type II cards are slightly thicker, and are
typically only supported on larger cameras. With that
extra bulk, they are able to come in larger capacities – up
to 8GB. The Microdrive, a tiny hard drive, is a
Type II card. The Microdrive comes in 340MB, 512MB,
1GB, and 4GB capacities. Be sure to make sure your
camera supports the Microdrive – some don't,
and others may not work with certain Microdrive models.
Sony is still selling cameras that
use removable media such as CD-R/RW and floppy disks.
Cameras that write
to CDs store about 156MB per disc. CDs cost about $2
a piece. Be warned that these CD-based cameras are
not Mac friendly. Floppy-based digital cameras give
you just 1.4MB on
which to store
photos,
so you can't fit many photos on a disk. (The
disks are practically free these days, however.) Because
of the inclusion of a floppy or CD mechanism , both
formats mean a bulkier, slower, and more expensive
camera than
one that uses flash memory.
Batteries
Digital cameras use two types
of batteries: standard AA or proprietary lithium-ion.
Lithium-ion
batteries are almost always rechargeable, but quite
often, the
AA batteries included with cameras are throw-away alkalines.
If that's the case, it's up to you to buy
rechargeables. Although proprietary batteries often
last longer than their AA counterparts, standard AA
batteries
offer a couple of advantages. For one, at roughly $8
for a set of four, they're less expensive than
proprietary batteries, which are often $50 or more.
Another advantage is that if your rechargeables ever
run out of juice, you can pick up a set of AA alkalines
to get you through the day. Try that with your $50
battery!
An AC adapter (sometimes included
if your camera uses proprietary batteries) comes
in handy when you're
transferring your photos to your computer, or using your
camera in a studio environment. If the camera includes
rechargeable AA batteries, you'll generally get
a charger, but not an AC adapter.
The Software in the Box
When you're considering
a camera take a close look at what else is in the box.
If you're a hardcore Photoshop user, you probably
won't care about bundled image-editing software,
but beginning photographers often use the software
included. In the past software has been pretty miserable,
but it has improved in recent years. If you like the
included software: great. If not, you're not stuck
with it -- you can use any number of products.
Hands On Testing
You can research most camera features
online, but in the end there's no substitute
for putting the camera in your own hands. Are the controls
well placed? Is the LCD visible in different lighting
conditions? If you point the lens in different directions,
does the LCD follow along smoothly? Take a few pictures – is
there a big lag between the time you press the shutter
release button and when the photo is taken? Pick a
few favorite cameras and then try them in person to
make the final
decision.
Must-have Accessories
There
are many accessories that you'll want to
consider once you get your digital camera. Some you'll
want to buy along with the camera, and the rest you'll
find yourself wanting a few weeks later.
Power
The number one accessory
is batteries. If your camera uses a proprietary battery,
buy a spare. If
your camera came with alkalines, buy a set or two of
NiMH
(nickel metal hydride) rechargeables, and a fast charger
if one doesn't come with your camera. You will
do your wallet—and the environment—a big
favor.
Larger memory cards
Whatever
type of memory card you get with your camera, there's definitely a larger
one available. For two- and three-megapixel cameras,
you'll want at least 64MB. For higher resolution
cameras, double that. Buy a few cards if possible.
Tripod
Many people wonder
how they can take good night photos or why pictures
of their child's dance recital
didn't come out. The answer is simple: the camera
needs to be steady. There are millions of tripods out
there, in all prices ranges from $20 to over $500. You'll
be glad you bought one.
Add-on lenses
Many cameras
support accessory (or conversion) lenses. You can
get wide-angle, telephoto, or macro
lenses that improve the capabilities of your camera.
These lens
often require an adapter (at additional cost) and
make your camera a bit unwieldy. Also, you will have
to
rely on the LCD for previewing pictures since the
optical viewfinder will not be accurate. Accessory
lenses usually
cost more than $100.
Camera Case
Why risk damaging your investment by
letting your camera dangle around your neck? Safely
store it
in a padded camera case. Larger cases (made for digital
cameras) have room for your extra batteries and memory
cards. A few cameras include a case, but the vast majority
do not.
The Last Word
From small
point-and-shoots to fully loaded digital SLRs, there
are cameras to fit every budget and every
need.
With careful research, both online and in person, you
can pick the one that's right for you. Remember:
buy what you need, and not when looks cool in the magazines.
Buy a camera with a resolution that you'll actually
use, a quality lens, and that's responsive and
easy to use. Then you'll be ready to shoot, organize,
and share your photos with the world!
Further Research
This site has many tools to assist
you in choosing a camera. Use our Reviews
& Info section to narrow down your choices, and then read the full
camera review, but never take it as gospel. Rather,
use the reviews as
one
step in
making your own decision about which camera is best
for you. If you're still confused, I've listed my favorite
cameras in various prices ranges on the this
page. Another
option is to ask for advice in our What
Camera Should I Buy forum (but please browse the
messages before you ask!). Good luck!
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